这成了时装秀上最具争议性的服饰，从鞋子、外套再到项链均可看到皮草的踪影，皮草已然卷土重来。
据美国毛皮信息委员会(Fur Information Council of America)统计，今年秋冬季时装周上的皮草款式比去年多出了20%。奥斯卡•德拉伦塔(Oscar De La Renta)用狐皮装饰外套；朗万(Lanvin)用浓密的狐皮领来点缀的黑色裁剪夹克；卡洛斯•米拉(Carlos Miele)展出了狐皮裁剪夹克以及摆动式俄国羔羊皮（波斯羔羊皮）外套；赫尔穆特•朗(Helmut Lang)推出了灰兔皮马甲；让•保罗•高提耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)则推出了黑色貂皮外套；而芬迪(Fendi)则推出了狐皮、貂皮和羊皮做的外套、围巾和马甲。
托本•尼尔森(Torben Nielson)是丹麦皮草拍卖商哥本哈根皮毛公司(Kopenhagen Fur) 的首席执行官，他说，皮草价格较去年翻了一倍，特别是貂皮与波斯羔羊皮很热销。“中国和俄罗斯市场呈爆炸式增长：中国市场占了我们业务量的一半以上，”尼尔森说。“中国市场消耗了一半的皮草，它们的毛皮商使用一半的皮草来生产各式奢侈品牌。”
名人们对如今的暖冬及来自公平对待动物组织人士(People for the Equal Treatment of Animals，Peta)的抗议“置若罔闻”，穿着皮草也较过去大为普遍。上周，有人发现凯特•莫斯(Kate Moss)在伦敦常春藤餐厅(The Ivy restaurant in London)用完餐后，身着一件浓密皮马甲；几天后，又有人拍到Love杂志主编凯蒂•格兰德(Katie Grand)身着醒目的白色皮装走出路易•维登店(Louis Vuitton)。
罗伯特•伯克(Robert Burke) 是纽约奢侈品方面的顾问，他说皮草大受青睐的原因在于它所新发掘出的现代性。“过去的皮外套百货店已风光不再。如今时装设计师在服饰中加入了自身的设计理念。”
如今不仅知名设计师在使用皮草，而且年轻一代的设计师——如Thakoon和扎克•珀森(Zac Posen)也开始尝试使用皮草。Thakoon推出了使用了小块狐皮、貂皮及浣熊皮的夹克，珀森则在多色外套上使用了条纹状狐皮。
布利克斯•史密斯-斯塔特(Brix Smith-Start) 是斯塔特伦敦精品店的老板，他认为皮草的地位无人撼动部分原因在于经济，缘于消费者想要适宜投资的款式以及“实实在在的奢侈品”。如今甚至配饰件也开始使用皮草：马诺洛•布拉尼克(Manolo Blahnik)推出的高跟短靴就用了南美栗鼠皮来装点；赛琳(Céline)的缎面鞋头开口式拖鞋使用了野兔皮作里衬；而路易•维登的链环式项链则使用了皮草来点缀。
但是，皮草成为时尚主流，在销售商和消费者之间仍存较大分歧，这也是为何皮草协会一直在想方设法改变自身形象的原因。世家皮草(Saga Furs)与年轻设计师已经合作了11年，通过赞助时装秀、免费提供皮草样品以使皮草呈现现代时尚元素，进而影响年轻一代消费群。世家皮草是一家代表芬兰及挪威3000家毛皮养殖户的机构。
“年轻人如今愿意购买皮草，他们对皮草的底细也知之甚深，”北美裘皮拍卖行(North American Fur Auctions)负责广告及促销的副总裁戴安萍(Diane Benedetti)说。“我们一直与环保人士积极合作；同时对皮草行业进行严格监管。我们还加大力度宣扬机构自身的道德操守。正是由于这个原因，公众又对皮草持支持态度，他们也从是否于环境更有益的角度来看待皮草。买皮草要比买聚酯夹克(polyester jacket)更有益于环境，聚酯夹克可能不久就会弃之一旁，而且要花上30年时间才能降解它，完全不可以随意处理。”
但许多设计师——包括缪缪(Miu Miu)，香奈儿(Chanel)及莲娜•丽姿(Nina Ricci)众多品牌在内——均摈弃真皮，而尽可能采用高品质仿皮以塑造出类似的奢华效果。萨拉•科伦(Sarah Curran)是My-wardrobe.com奢侈品牌零售网站的创始人及总裁，她说，“上乘品质仿皮的应用渐趋增多，在Jaeger London、Sportmax、See by Chloé以及Love Moschino设计的系列中，仿皮是主打材质。这个秋冬季，我们销售的外套中约有35%为仿皮质。”
英国Liberty百货公司采购总监Ed Burstell也附和上述说法。“仿皮的质量已经大为提高，”他说，还补充说Liberty百货店的仿皮服饰销量较去年秋季增加了2倍。“除非消费者一致觉得仿皮服饰看上去廉价而最终摈弃它，但现在几乎难以区分两者（真皮草与仿皮）之间的差别。”
但Burstell注意到，消费者仍难接受以上等皮草的价格来购买仿皮服饰。“消费者没有意识到实际上（制作）真皮草与仿皮属于完全不同的工序，制作上乘的仿皮的过程实际要比买件真皮草贵得多。”
详情请参阅以下网址：
（译者：常和）
http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001035412
It is the most contentious item of clothing on the catwalk, found on everything from shoes to coats to chain necklaces. Fur is back.
According to the Fur Information Council of America, fur appears in 20 per cent more of the autumn/winter catwalk collections this year than last. At Oscar de la Renta, coats were trimmed with fox; at Lanvin, black cropped jackets were adorned with shaggy fox collars; Carlos Miele showed cropped fox jackets and swing astrakhan (Persian lamb) coats; at Helmut Lang there were grey rabbit gilets; Jean Paul Gaultier introduced black coats with mink; while Fendi had coats, shawls and gilets in fox, mink and shearling.
Torben Nielson, chief executive of Kopenhagen Fur, a Danish fur auction house, says prices of fur have doubled on last year, with mink and Persian lamb in particular selling fast. “China and Russia are exploding: China accounts for more than half our business,” he says. “Half of [the fur] is consumed in China, and half is used by Chinese furriers to produce pieces for luxury brands.”
Celebrities are wearing fur more often, too, irrespective of milder winters or protesters from People for the Equal Treatment of Animals (Peta). Last week, Kate Moss emerged from dinner at The Ivy restaurant in London wearing a shaggy fur gilet; days later Love magazine editor Katie Grand was photographed in a bold white fur piece from Louis Vuitton.
Robert Burke, a New York-based luxury consultant, says the reason for fur’s popularity is its newfound modernity. “It’s no longer about the old fur coat department. Fashion designers are putting their stamp on pieces now.”
And it is not only the established guard who are using fur but also younger designers such as Thakoon and Zac Posen. Thakoon has worked fox, mink and raccoon patches into jackets, Posen striped fox fur into multicoloured coats.
Brix Smith Start, owner of Start London boutiques, believes the ascendance of fur is partly a result of the economy, with consumers wanting investment pieces and “tangible luxury”. It has even emerged on accessories: Manolo Blahnik’s high-heel booties are trimmed in chinchilla; Céline’s satin open-toe mules with rabbit-fur lining; and Louis Vuitton’s chain-link necklaces are interspersed with fur.
Fur’s increased prevalence, however, is still a divisive issue for retailers and consumers alike. That’s why fur associations have been striving to transform its image. Saga furs, a body representing 3,000 breeders in Finland and Norway, has worked with young fashion designers for 10 years, sponsoring shows and providing free samples in order to give fur a fashion edge and reach younger audiences.
“Young people are buying fur now, and they’re more educated about where it comes from,” says Diane Benedetti, vice-president of advertising and promotion at North American Fur Auctions. “We’ve worked with environmental conservationists; the industry is heavily regulated. We’ve also tried to communicate our ethical practices much more. People are embracing fur again because of that. They’re seeing it more for it’s environmental benefits. Buying fur is better than buying a polyester jacket you’ll throw away the next minute, and will take 30 years to biodegrade. It’s the opposite of disposable.”
But many designers, including Miu Miu, Chanel and Nina Ricci, have rejected real fur and tried to create a similar luxurious effect with high-quality faux fur. Sarah Curran, founder and chief executive of retail website My-wardrobe.com, says, “We’ve seen an increase in extremely high-quality faux fur, which has featured heavily in the collections of designers such as Jaeger London, Sportmax, See by Chloé and Love Moschino. Around 35 per cent of our coat buy this season includes faux fur.”
Ed Burstell, buying director at Liberty, in London, concurs. “The quality of faux fur has improved so much,” he says, adding that the store had tripled its buy of faux fur pieces from last autumn. “Before it had the reputation for looking cheap, but now you can hardly tell the difference.”
Burstell notes, however, that there is still resistance among consumers to paying the same price as for the real thing. “People don’t realise that it actually works in reverse with faux fur. The process of making really great faux fur is actually more expensive than buying real fur.”
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