问
：听起来，皮夹克是个不错的选择。不过，同样是穿皮夹克，年轻强悍的马龙•白兰度（Marlon Brando）和中年发福的大卫•哈塞尔霍夫（David Hasselhoff）之间可谓相去万里。怎样才能把皮夹克穿得有型有款呢？
Newscom
暂且不说时尚的问题，皮夹克本身就可能是你毕生衣着当中期限最长的一份投资，带给你的格调收益比你能拥有的任何西服套装都要持久得多。更有甚者，一件精工细作的皮夹克还可能坚持几个世代，成为一件潜在的传家宝，到你儿子懂得扮酷的时候就可以换个主人。实际上，真正能够历久弥新的衣装可谓寥寥无几，皮夹克恰恰是其中之一。
跟其他的衣料一样，今天的皮革也已经异于往昔。今时今日，受人青睐的是羊皮和山羊皮之类的软皮，不再是牛皮和马皮之类的过时品种。有些人可能会说，材质的变化简直是一种欺骗，因为他们认为，把一件硬梆梆的皮夹克穿软几乎可以相当于一个男孩的成年礼。不过，对于我们这些人来说，皮革种类的变化是一个值得叫好的革新，因为我们希望，皮夹克从到手的那一刻开始就具备非常棒的形状和手感。
皮夹克的款式不计其数，机车式、飞行员式和立领式不过是其中几例而已。即便如此，所有款式还是有一些通用的准则。首先，它是夹克而不是大衣，因此就不应该延伸到腰部以下。其次，至关重要的因素是合身：它应该能起到修饰体形的作用，同时又不能紧到限制行动的地步。（当然，皮夹克如果合身，你就应该可以抬起胳膊去抓哈雷摩托车的车把。）
因为皮革的重量，尺码过大的皮夹克会让你看起来像个穿着父亲的衣服装硬汉的10岁孩童。当然喽，真需要穿着皮夹克从事户外工作的人可能会喜欢大一点的尺码，为的是方便行动──不过，如果你不是什么牧场工人，那就还是把这种风格留给牛仔吧。
选好皮夹克之后，你就应该学会怎么穿它。皮夹克是一种休闲服装，不适合歌剧院和办公室之类的场所。拿它来搭配牛仔裤、T恤和靴子总是不会错的。你也可以给它配上一条领带，但却必须是样式时髦的细领带。你得记住，皮夹克是适于夜间娱乐活动的衣物，所以呢，跟它搭配的衣物也得满足同样的条件。
Jason Chow
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
Q: A leather jacket seems like a great idea. But there's a fine line separating the young, tough Marlon Brando and the middle-aged, overweight David Hasselhoff. How can you make sure you get it right?
A: First, a caution: The cost of a high-end jacket can be the same as several iPads. Which style to choose is not a decision to take lightly. But if you are contemplating buying a leather jacket, you can give yourself a pat on the back for being on top of the style wave. Not only has leather made a big comeback this year, but a number of major fashion labels are also touting leather for the spring/summer 2011. Gucci and Burberry, just to name a couple, featured leather jackets heavily in their shows for the upcoming season. Leather is definitely in.
Putting 'fashion' aside for a minute, a leather jacket could be the longest-term wardrobe investment you'll ever make, one that pays style dividends far longer than any suit you'll ever own. A well-made leather jacket could even last multiple generations, a potential heirloom to hand down to your son once he learns how important it is to be cool. In fact, it's one of the few items in your wardrobe that might actually improve with age.
Like many other materials, contemporary leather ain't what it used to be. These days, softer leathers such as lambskin and goatskin are popular alternatives to old-fashioned leathers such as cowhide and horsehide. Some may say this is cheating─breaking in a leather jacket is almost a rite of passage. But for those of us who want a jacket that looks and feels great as soon as you take it off the peg, the new approach to leather is a welcome development.
Among the numerous styles available─motorcycle, bomber and banded collar just to name a few─a few general rules always apply. First, it's a jacket, not a coat, and so it shouldn't descend lower than your waist. Second, fit is paramount: It should be snug in such a way to flatter the form without being too restrictive in your movement. (You should be able to lift your arms to grab the handlebars of a Harley, of course).
Because of the material's heft, an oversized jacket will make you look like a 10 year-old acting tough by wearing his father's clothes. Of course, those who really do need a jacket for working outdoors might prefer a loose fit for greater mobility─unless you're a ranch hand, leave this style to the cowboys.
Once you've settled on your jacket, know how to wear it. It's casual wear, not for the opera or the office. It always goes well with jeans, T-shirts and boots. You can match it with a tie, too, but keep your neckwear skinny and mod. Remember, a leather jacket is for nights on the town ─ your accompanying outfit should be too.
Jason Chow
A: First, a caution: The cost of a high-end jacket can be the same as several iPads. Which style to choose is not a decision to take lightly. But if you are contemplating buying a leather jacket, you can give yourself a pat on the back for being on top of the style wave. Not only has leather made a big comeback this year, but a number of major fashion labels are also touting leather for the spring/summer 2011. Gucci and Burberry, just to name a couple, featured leather jackets heavily in their shows for the upcoming season. Leather is definitely in.
Putting 'fashion' aside for a minute, a leather jacket could be the longest-term wardrobe investment you'll ever make, one that pays style dividends far longer than any suit you'll ever own. A well-made leather jacket could even last multiple generations, a potential heirloom to hand down to your son once he learns how important it is to be cool. In fact, it's one of the few items in your wardrobe that might actually improve with age.
Like many other materials, contemporary leather ain't what it used to be. These days, softer leathers such as lambskin and goatskin are popular alternatives to old-fashioned leathers such as cowhide and horsehide. Some may say this is cheating─breaking in a leather jacket is almost a rite of passage. But for those of us who want a jacket that looks and feels great as soon as you take it off the peg, the new approach to leather is a welcome development.
Among the numerous styles available─motorcycle, bomber and banded collar just to name a few─a few general rules always apply. First, it's a jacket, not a coat, and so it shouldn't descend lower than your waist. Second, fit is paramount: It should be snug in such a way to flatter the form without being too restrictive in your movement. (You should be able to lift your arms to grab the handlebars of a Harley, of course).
Because of the material's heft, an oversized jacket will make you look like a 10 year-old acting tough by wearing his father's clothes. Of course, those who really do need a jacket for working outdoors might prefer a loose fit for greater mobility─unless you're a ranch hand, leave this style to the cowboys.
Once you've settled on your jacket, know how to wear it. It's casual wear, not for the opera or the office. It always goes well with jeans, T-shirts and boots. You can match it with a tie, too, but keep your neckwear skinny and mod. Remember, a leather jacket is for nights on the town ─ your accompanying outfit should be too.
Jason Chow
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