波尔多葡萄酒行业协会（Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux，简称CIVB）表示，今年中国首度取代英国和德国，成为波尔多葡萄酒出口额最高的市场，而且中国人越来越懂得如何品鉴而不只是购买上等葡萄酒。
CIVB亚洲市场总监托马斯•朱利安(Thomas Jullien)表示，过去5年，波尔多葡萄酒在华销售每年都会翻倍，但今年上半年，不论按出口量还是出口额计算，中国内地和香港都已经超过英国，成为波尔多葡萄酒的最大出口市场，总额已经高达9000万欧元（合1.18亿美元）。
按出口量计算，德国下降至第二位，按出口额英国排名第二。中国内地和香港去年的出口量排名第四。销往香港的许多葡萄酒的最终目的地也是中国内地。
但朱利安表示，中国的葡萄酒消费习惯正日臻成熟。
“五、六年前，进口商对葡萄酒连尝都不尝，他们只想看价格单，”他说道。
“现在如果你参加葡萄酒博览会，人们会品尝葡萄酒，而且他们意识到，葡萄酒重要的不只是品牌和价格。”
波尔多葡萄酒生产商最近发布了一本食谱，将各种波尔多葡萄酒与中国传统菜肴搭配，包括一些看似不可能的组合，例如猪蹄配圣特美隆(Saint-Emilion)、鸭舌配玛高庄(Margaux)。
上海中国市场研究集团(China Market Research Group)负责人雷小山(Shaun Rein)表示，许多中国人仍不熟悉红酒消费的传统例。“他们或是往里面加冰块，或是像白酒那样一杯接一杯地猛灌。”
“我曾经看到有人把1000多美元一瓶的葡萄酒当白酒一样喝。”
但中国富豪榜编撰者胡润(Rupert Hoogewerf)称，这些习惯或许不会持久。
“每次中国人提升品味修养的速度——无论是对手表、私人飞机还是私家桥车的了解——都让市场大感意外，我不认为在红酒领域会有什么不同，”胡润表示。他预计中国对葡萄酒的需求会持续增长——而且不仅仅是用于消费。
“过去5到6年，中国企业家已经将住所从公寓搬至别墅，”他补充道——有别墅就有酒窖。“人们刚刚开始修建自己的酒窖，这将是推动红酒需求的又一个因素。”
就连中国的官方宴席（包括在中国国家领导人工作与用餐的中南海）也越来越多地用红酒取代白酒——在中国，这种传统烈酒因在酒席上将商务人士灌得不省人事而出名。
●据路透社(Reuters)报道，随着香港葡萄酒拍卖季拉开帷幕，价值超过1500万美元的波尔多和勃艮第一级酒庄葡萄酒将参加拍卖。
总部位于纽约的Zachys上周开启了香港拍卖季，并以50262美元拍出一瓶1990年罗曼尼-康帝酒庄(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti)的拉塔希(La Tache)葡萄酒，以及数箱1989年、1990年和1995年的彼得绿堡(Chateau Petrus)，成交价分别为40837美元、40837美元和23560美元。
本月17日与18日，Acker Merrall & Condit将拍卖六瓶装1971年罗曼尼-康帝，成交价估计为18.5万美元，以及三箱1982年彼得绿堡，估计每箱成交价为7.2万美元。
佳士得(Christie's) 17日将在香港推出300件拍品，其中包括80箱罗斯柴尔德拉菲(Lafite Rothschild)，预计每箱成交价将在1.1万美元到2.45万美元之间。
译者/管婧
http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001034711
China has overtaken the UK and Germany to become the top export market for Bordeaux wines in value for the first time this year – and the Chinese are increasingly learning how to savour good wine, not just how to buy it, according to the Conseil Inter- professionnel du Vin de Bordeaux.
Sales of Bordeaux wines in China have doubled every year for the past five years but, in the first half of this year, China and Hong Kong surpassed the UK to take top position for exports of Bordeaux wine by volume – and by value, now totalling €90m, ($118m) according to Thomas Jullien, Asia marketing director of the CIVB.
Germany was relegated to second place, in terms of volume, and the UK to second place in terms of value. China and Hong Kong – where many sales are also destined for the mainland – were fourth in terms of volume last year.
But wine consumption habits in China are becoming more sophisticated, says Mr Jullien.
“Five or six years ago, importers did not even want to taste the wines, they just wanted to look at the price list,” he says.
“Now when you go to a wine fair, people are tasting the wines, and they realise wine is not just about brand and price.”
Bordeaux winemakers recently published a recipe book pairing various Bordeaux wines with traditional Chinese dishes, including such perhaps unlikely combinations such as pigs’ feet with Saint-Emilion and duck tongues with Margaux.
Shaun Rein, head of China Market Research in Shanghai, says many Chinese people are still unfamiliar with the traditional conventions of red wine consumption. “They either put ice cubes in it, or they drink it in shots,” he says.
“I’ve seen people drink $1,000-plus bottles as shots.”
But Rupert Hoogewerf, publisher of the China Rich List, says such habits may not last long.
“The speed of refinement, whether it is understanding watches, or private jets, or private cars, has taken the market by surprise each time and I don’t expect it to be any different for red wine,” Mr Hoogewerf says. He expects demand will continue to grow – and not just for consumption.
“Over the past five or six years, the Chinese entrepreneur has moved his residence from an apartment into a villa,” he adds – and with villas come wine cellars. “People are just in the process of building themselves a cellar and that is another driver for red wine”.
Even hosts at Chinese official banquets – including at Zhongnanhai, the compound where China’s top leaders work and dine – are increasingly serving red wine instead of baijiu, the traditional Chinese liquor so famous for rendering banqueting businessmen senseless in China.
● More than $15m-worth of first-growth Bordeaux and Burgundies will go under the hammer as the wine auction season kicks off in Hong Kong, Reuters writes.
New York-based Zachys began the auction season in Hong Kong last week and sold a 1990 La Tache Domaine de la Romanee Conti for $50,262, and cases of 1989, 1990 and 1995 Chateau Petrus, which fetched $40,837, $40,837 and $23,560 respectively.
On Friday and Saturday Acker Merrall & Condit will auction a six-pack of magnums of 1971 Romanee Conti for about $185,000 and three cases of 1982 Chateau Petrus, which each could sell for $72,000.
Christie’s offers 300 lots in Hong Kong on Saturday, including 80 cases of Lafite-Rothschild, with estimates of between $11,000 and $24,500 a case.
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