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994年，扶霞•邓禄普（Fuchsia Dunlop）搬到了中国西南部的四川省，为的是替英国政府的国际文化公关机构英国文化委员会（British Council）研究中国的少数民族政策。
Jonathan Perugia for The Wall Street Journal
扶霞•邓禄普（Fuchsia Dunlop）
她把自己在中国的中餐体验编成了两本书，一本是《四川烹饪》（Sichuan Cookery，2001年出版），另一本是《革命性的中餐食谱：湘菜》（Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province，2006年出版）。她于2008年出版的回忆录《鱼翅与花椒》（Shark's Fin & Sichuan Pepper）赢得了国际专业烹饪协会（the International Association of Culinary Professionals）2009年度的简•格里格森奖（Jane Grigson Award），去年还入围了詹姆斯•比尔德基金会（James Beard Foundation）评奖活动的决选名单。该基金会旨在纪念著名的美国厨师及烹饪作家詹姆斯•比尔德，基金会的奖项拥有很高的声望。
如今，邓禄普女士已经被大家公认为一位深谙中国美食的西洋专家，同时也是一名技巧娴熟、充满激情的解密者，为西方的美食迷和侨居海外的中国人解开了中国地方风味的秘密。在探索中国美食的过程中，经常都有西方人或者中国人为她的这份执着感到惊奇不已。对她来说，这已经成了一件习以为常的事情。
懂得中文读写的邓禄普女士说，“按我看，刚开始的时候，看到这个疯狂的外国人对中国食物一往情深，他们只是觉得有点儿感动而已。不过，看到我对风味的见解非常专业，又看到我对烹饪的方法和材料都很内行，他们才真正地受到了震撼。”
回到家乡伦敦，她喜欢到金丝雀码头（Canary Wharf）的皇朝中餐馆（Royal China）──按她的看法，那是世界上最好的六家中餐馆之一──去吃点心。“炎炎夏日之中，到这里的露台上来坐一坐，吃吃点心，看看远处的泰晤士河，是我最喜欢的事情之一。”她选出的其他5个中餐馆都在中国：
1. 北京的大董烤鸭店（Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant）
地址：东城区东四十条22号 电话：86-10-5169-0328
理由：当然是烤鸭
2. 四川成都的喻家厨房（Yu's Family Kitchen）
地址：窄巷子43号 电话：86-28-8669-1975
理由：这家餐馆由大厨喻波和他妻子Dai Shuang打理。我在中国各地吃了超过15年，最让我激动的兴许就是这家餐馆。餐馆地方不大，只有6个包间，食物却棒极了。
3. 浙江杭州的龙井草堂（Dragon Well Manor）
地址：龙井路399号 电话：86-571-8788-8777
理由：龙井草堂的食物都是有机的，材料直接来自手工作坊和农家，由不用味精的大师级厨师烹制。餐馆里的各个包间散步在龙井茶山当中一个美丽花园的四周，在这里吃饭的感觉就像是走进了中国经典小说《红楼梦》里的大观园。这是我在中国最喜欢的地方之一。
4. 香港的祥发餐厅（Cheung Fat）
地址：Shing Nam路60号 电话：852-2383-3114
理由：祥发餐厅是九龙城（Kowloon City）的一家小餐馆，看起来相当破旧，潮州菜却做得非常不错。
5. 江苏扬州的卢氏大院（The Lu Family Mansion）
地址：康山街22号 电话：86-514-8790-7197
理由：这家餐馆坐落在一幢经过修复的盐商老宅当中，他们供应的早餐兴许是我在中国的最爱：美味的扬州包子和饺子。
Stephanie Wood
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
Fuchsia Dunlop moved to Sichuan province in southwestern China in 1994 to study Chinese policy on ethnic minorities for the British Council, the U.K. government's international cultural relations body.
Fortunately for lovers of Chinese food, Ms. Dunlop neglected her studies in favor of taking to the streets on a bicycle, filling journals with notes and sketches of the food she discovered and grilling street vendors and noodle shop owners about their town's food.
She chronicled her Chinese culinary journey China in 'Sichuan Cookery' (2001) and 'Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province' (2006). Her 2008 memoir, 'Shark's Fin & Sichuan Pepper,' won the 2009 Jane Grigson Award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals and was short-listed last year for a prestigious award from the James Beard Foundation, established in honor of the famed American chef and cookbook writer.
Today, Ms. Dunlop is widely acknowledged as the pre-eminent Western expert on Chinese food, a deft and lyrical interpreter of the mysteries of regional cuisines for Western food lovers and the Chinese diaspora alike. Along the way, she has gotten used to having both Westerners and Chinese people wonder at her obsession.
'In the early days I think they were touched that this crazy foreigner was so passionate about Chinese food, but because I can talk quite professionally about cuisine and I can talk quite precisely about cooking methods and ingredients, they're really amazed,' said Ms. Dunlop, who also reads and writes Chinese.
At home in London, she takes a dim-sum fix at Royal China restaurant in Canary Wharf─one of the six best Chinese restaurants in the world, by her reckoning. 'Sitting outside on the terrace here on a hot summer's day, eating dumplings and looking out over the Thames, is one of my favorite things.' Her other five picks are in China:
1. Beijing Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant
For the Peking duck, obviously.
22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. Tel 86-10-5169-0328
2. Yu's Family Kitchen in Chengdu, Sichuan Province
This restaurant, run by Chef Yu Bo and his wife Dai Shuang, is probably the most thrilling I've encountered in more than 15 years of eating around China. It's a small place, with only six private dining rooms, and the food is exquisite.
43 Zhai Xiangzi. Tel 86-28-8669-1975
3. Dragon Well Manor in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
The food here is organic, sourced directly from artisanal producers and peasant farmers, cooked by master chefs without MSG and served in private rooms scattered around a beautiful garden in the Longjing tea hills. It's like visiting the Prospect Garden in the classic Chinese novel 'Dream of Red Mansions' ('Hong Lou Meng'). One of my favorite places in China.
399 Longjing Lu. Tel 86-571-8788-8777
4. Cheung Fat, Hong Kong
A fairly scruffy-looking café in Kowloon City that serves marvelous Chaozhou food.
60 Shing Nam Rd. Tel 852-2383-3114
5. The Lu Family Mansion, Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province
Theirs is possibly my favorite breakfast in China: delicious Yangzhou baozi and dumplings served up in the restored mansion of a salt merchant.
22 Kangshan St. Tel 86-514-8790-7197
Stephanie Wood
Fortunately for lovers of Chinese food, Ms. Dunlop neglected her studies in favor of taking to the streets on a bicycle, filling journals with notes and sketches of the food she discovered and grilling street vendors and noodle shop owners about their town's food.
She chronicled her Chinese culinary journey China in 'Sichuan Cookery' (2001) and 'Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province' (2006). Her 2008 memoir, 'Shark's Fin & Sichuan Pepper,' won the 2009 Jane Grigson Award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals and was short-listed last year for a prestigious award from the James Beard Foundation, established in honor of the famed American chef and cookbook writer.
Today, Ms. Dunlop is widely acknowledged as the pre-eminent Western expert on Chinese food, a deft and lyrical interpreter of the mysteries of regional cuisines for Western food lovers and the Chinese diaspora alike. Along the way, she has gotten used to having both Westerners and Chinese people wonder at her obsession.
'In the early days I think they were touched that this crazy foreigner was so passionate about Chinese food, but because I can talk quite professionally about cuisine and I can talk quite precisely about cooking methods and ingredients, they're really amazed,' said Ms. Dunlop, who also reads and writes Chinese.
At home in London, she takes a dim-sum fix at Royal China restaurant in Canary Wharf─one of the six best Chinese restaurants in the world, by her reckoning. 'Sitting outside on the terrace here on a hot summer's day, eating dumplings and looking out over the Thames, is one of my favorite things.' Her other five picks are in China:
1. Beijing Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant
For the Peking duck, obviously.
22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. Tel 86-10-5169-0328
2. Yu's Family Kitchen in Chengdu, Sichuan Province
This restaurant, run by Chef Yu Bo and his wife Dai Shuang, is probably the most thrilling I've encountered in more than 15 years of eating around China. It's a small place, with only six private dining rooms, and the food is exquisite.
43 Zhai Xiangzi. Tel 86-28-8669-1975
3. Dragon Well Manor in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
The food here is organic, sourced directly from artisanal producers and peasant farmers, cooked by master chefs without MSG and served in private rooms scattered around a beautiful garden in the Longjing tea hills. It's like visiting the Prospect Garden in the classic Chinese novel 'Dream of Red Mansions' ('Hong Lou Meng'). One of my favorite places in China.
399 Longjing Lu. Tel 86-571-8788-8777
4. Cheung Fat, Hong Kong
A fairly scruffy-looking café in Kowloon City that serves marvelous Chaozhou food.
60 Shing Nam Rd. Tel 852-2383-3114
5. The Lu Family Mansion, Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province
Theirs is possibly my favorite breakfast in China: delicious Yangzhou baozi and dumplings served up in the restored mansion of a salt merchant.
22 Kangshan St. Tel 86-514-8790-7197
Stephanie Wood
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