2010年12月6日

威士忌:比葡萄酒稍逊风骚 Scotch: Still Less Fine Than Wine

香港,本周的一次威士忌拍卖会虽然反响热烈,成果却不像日前的几次葡萄酒拍卖会那么辉煌。

LVMH
1974年酿制的一瓶雅柏单桶威士忌成交价为124,950港元。
宝龙拍卖行(Bonhams)说,本周四的这次威士忌拍卖会是香港有史以来的第二次,成交数量达到了拍品总数的80%,总成交额则为567,000港元(73,000美元)。最昂贵的一件拍品是1974年酿制的一瓶雅柏(Ardbeg Double Barrel)单桶威士忌,由香港本地的一位藏家拍得,成交价为124,950港元,刚刚突破了10万至12万港元的拍卖估价。

宝龙的欧洲区酒品拍卖主管哈维(Richard Harvey)说,"说不定,威士忌酿造商当中也会涌现像拉菲(Lafite)那样的名牌。"拉菲是法国波尔多的一个葡萄酒品牌,那些富有的中国葡萄酒藏家对它十分青睐。

香港已经成为了一个重要的葡萄酒拍卖中心,苏富比拍卖行(Sotheby's)和佳士得拍卖行(Christies)都说,在今年,香港的珍品葡萄酒销量将会超过纽约和伦敦两个城市的总和。本周,宝龙的珍品葡萄酒成交额达到了1420万港元,成交率为95%,单是一套产自罗曼尼-康帝酒庄(Domaine Romanée-Conti)的名酒就拍到了261,800港元。

香港的葡萄酒销量居于亚洲领先位置,威士忌销量却不如台湾。台湾虽然只有2300万人口,但却是世界第四大的威士忌市场,仅次于美国、英国和法国。

按人均计算,台湾的威士忌消费量排名世界第三,仅次于英国和法国,威士忌销量占到了整个亚洲市场的41%。(亚洲的主要威士忌市场还包括新加坡和日本。)

台湾人对苏格兰优质威士忌的需求增长迅猛:2009年,台湾进口了303,000箱单一麦芽威士忌,数量几乎是2002年的8倍。波摩单一麦芽威士忌(Bowmore)和欧肯特轩单一麦芽威士忌(Auchentoshan)的出品商波摩公司(Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd.)说,他们在台湾的核心顾客群体是30岁到40岁之间的男士。

波摩公司的亚洲区经理帕提森(David Pattison)说,许多苏格兰威士忌厂商都把台湾当成了进入中国市场的跳板。(1994年,波摩公司成为了日本威士忌厂商三得利公司(Suntory)的下属企业。)

如今,台湾的一些酒厂也开始酿造自己的单一麦芽威士忌,而且得到了鉴赏家们的好评。今年早些时候,《泰晤士报》(Times)在伦敦举行了一次威士忌风味盲测活动,台湾出产的噶玛兰(Kavalan)威士忌在活动当中拔得头筹,击败了一些历史悠久、名头更响的苏格兰品牌。

在本周的宝龙威士忌拍卖会上,20%的成交拍品都是被台湾买家收入囊中。奢侈品企业集团LVMH拥有格兰杰(Glenmorangie)和雅柏这两个苏格兰威士忌品牌,本次拍卖会成交价最高的拍品便是一瓶雅柏威士忌。该集团酒饮顾问米雷(Arnaud Mirey)说,"据我们所知,许多台湾买家都是专门赶来参加这次拍卖会的。我们确信,威士忌市场将会发展到堪与葡萄酒市场媲美的地步。"

Jason Chow

(本文版权归道琼斯公司所有,未经许可不得翻译或转载。)


An auction of fine whiskeys in Hong Kong this week garnered a warm reception but fell short of the spectacular results of recent wine auctions in the city.

Bonhams auctioneers said 80% of the lots were sold Tuesday evening at its second-ever Hong Kong whiskey auction, which raised a total of 567,000 Hong Kong dollars ($73,000). The most expensive item on the block, a bottle of Ardbeg Double Barrel single-cask whiskey distilled in 1974, sold to a local collector for HK$124,950, just above the estimated range of HK$100,000 to HK$120,000.

'Maybe one of these distillers will become the Lafite of whiskey,' said Richard Harvey, Bonham's European head of wine, referring to the Bordeaux label favored by wealthy Chinese wine buyers.

Already Hong Kong has established itself as a major wine-auction hub ─ auction houses Sotheby's and Christies say that sales of fine wine in the city this year will surpass sales in New York and London combined. Bonhams own sale of rare wines this week raised HK$14.2 million, with 95% of lots sold, including an assortment from Domaine Romanée-Conti that went for HK$261,800.

While Hong Kong has become Asia's top spot for wine sales, it still lags behind Taiwan when it comes to an appetite for whiskey. Taiwan, with a population of just 23 million people, is the fourth-largest whiskey market in the world, after the U.S., United Kingdom and France.

Per capita, the Taiwanese rank third in whiskey consumption, after drinkers in the U.K. and France. It accounts for 41% of all whiskey sales in Asia. (Singapore and Japan are also strong whiskey markets in Asia.)

Taiwan's taste for fine Scotch whisky has risen quickly: In 2009, the island imported 303,000 cases of single-malt, about eight times as many as in 2002. Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd., makers of Bowmore and Auchentoshan single-malt Scotches, says its core market in Taiwan is men between the ages of 30 and 40.

David Pattison, Bowmore's regional manager for Asia, said that many Scotch distillers see Taiwan as a springboard test market for China. (Bowmore has been owned by Japanese whiskey distiller Suntory since 1994.)

Some Taiwanese distillers are now starting to make their own single-malts ─ and are impressing critics. Earlier this year, at a blind tasting arranged by the Times newspaper in London, Taiwanese label Kavalan came out on top, besting more-famous and long-established Scottish brands.

About 20% of the lots sold at the Bonhams auction this week were picked up by Taiwanese buyers. 'We knew a lot of Taiwanese buyers who were flying in just for this auction,' said Arnaud Mirey, wines & spirits consultant for luxury conglomerate LVMH which also owns the Glenmorangie and Ardbeg Scotch whisky brands, the latter of which was responsible for the most expensive bottle sold at the auction. 'We really think whiskey is an area that can be developed just as much as wine.'

Jason Chow

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