不
久以前，工作之余想打发点儿时间的访客们在首尔只有简调的选择：在酒店餐厅和酒吧或者去梨泰院(Itaewon)花掉公司的差旅费。梨泰院位于美军基地附近，有些破败，那里的餐厅和酒吧供应多种菜式。不过在最近几年，首尔建起了许多让人流连忘返的餐厅和街区，那些依然只光顾老地方的访客们也许就要错过了。提供各色菜式的高档餐厅在城市的各个角落涌现出来，尤其是在光化门(Gwanghwamun)、江南(Gangnam)、瑞草(Seocho)和汝矣岛(Yeouido)这些临近主要商业中心的地方。总部位于纽约的餐厅指南出版商Zagat's今年早些时候也首次推出了首尔指南。
Agence France Presse
首尔的夜景
尽管首尔对现代化的热情已经威胁到了传统的社区，但有些地方新老城区的融合却让人眼前一亮。三清洞(Samcheong-dong)就是这方面的典范：这里有宜人的山边景色，又临近政府办公地和曾经的王宫所在地景福宫(Gyeongbok Palace)，历来就是贵族和政府官员青睐之地。韩国总统府所在地青瓦台(Blue House)距离这里只有几个街区之遥，而总理府也恰好在这一街区的中央。
三清洞是行人的地盘，这里最适合步行游览（最大的不足就是这里有时候车水马龙、交通缓慢）。这一地区如今吸引来大批游客，各色店铺在大街小巷遍地开花。（小巷里还散落着很多奇巧的博物馆，包括以小鸡和猫头鹰为主题的艺术品博物馆以及一家馆如其名的“性爱”(Eros)博物馆。）
画廊、精品店、高级餐厅、咖啡店和红酒吧沿街而立，不过这里也并不全是光鲜体面的去处。在三清洞，毗邻法国高级餐厅的可能是一家有着几十年历史的外表破败的干洗店。
许多被称为“韩屋”(hanok)的传统庭院式住宅经过翻修已经变成了咖啡馆和餐厅，经营着从意大利到日本菜等各地菜肴。而这样古色古香的用餐环境在首尔的其他地方已经很难见到了。这些地方供应的食物大多无可挑剔而且价格合理，而且氛围也令人感觉舒适温馨。
三清洞最好的菜肴之一要算是Chez Simon餐厅提供的每日试味套餐了。这是一家只接受预约的法式餐厅，只设有五张餐桌。主厨西蒙•沈(Simon Shim)当年在法国学习文学时，曾在一次聚会上烹饪了一些韩式菜肴。朋友们看出了他的烹饪天赋。“嗨，如果我是你，我才不会去学文学！”他记得一个朋友这么对他说。
沈进入了著名的巴黎烹饪艺术学校蓝带学院(Le Cordon Bleu)学习。2002年获得学位之后，他先后在法国和首尔的柏悦酒店(Park Hyatt)工作。2008年他开设了自己的餐厅，将店址选在三清洞是因为他喜爱这里的宁静。沈说，如果你离开繁忙的大街稍走几步之遥，就会感觉进入到了一个完全不同的世界。
“这片地区位于首尔的中心，然而却紧邻古老的宫殿，”附近咖啡红酒吧Fatum的老板Cho Kuem-ran表示。“大山和喧嚣大都市如此接近的景象也非常独特。” Cho Kuem-ran在这里居住了20多年。
这个有四层楼的酒吧利用地处山坡的地理位置，让客人们有机会在屋顶品尝咖啡、茶和红酒的同时欣赏落日或夜间的景色：左手边是摩天大楼，从中间能看到王宫屋顶，右边则是高耸的北岳山(Mt. Bukak)。如果刮起冷风，你可以要来一条Fatum放在店里一角的“膝盖毯”。
要是愿意沿着大路走上20分钟到卧龙公园(Waryong Park)，就可以看到更好的景色。从观景台可以鸟瞰首尔的夜景，还能够透过一台投币式望远镜观看近景。
如果你开始觉得冷，那么就下山到一处名为“第二名”(Second Best Place)的传统韩国茶室坐坐。这座茶室已经经历了过去35年的沧桑巨变；当时这片地区还只有几家店铺。这间茶室面积不大、屋顶低矮，充满了传统韩国茶香的味道，弥漫着一种让人放松的气氛。
现年70岁出头的老板娘Kim Eun-sook表示，她想出这个名字是为了与餐饮界那些坚称自家最好的“可笑”潮流唱反调。她下决心通过对高品质食物的不懈追求来树立品牌。如果你最近不太走运，那么你或许应该尝尝店里最受欢迎的danpatjuk，它是一种甜甜的红豆粥，里面有大大的糯米丸子、银杏和栗子，粥上面还撒有肉桂粉。在冬至时节吃红豆粥驱避疫鬼是韩国人的传统。
为了在夜晚多逛上几个地方，叫辆出租车，跨过汉江到达首尔的南边──特别是首尔许多时装名品店和摄影棚所在地清潭洞(Cheongdam-dong)。前往首尔最火爆的夜店之一T-Lound，这个名字来自英文单词“lounge”和“round”。（告诉出租车司机去鹤洞站(Hakdong Intersection)，韩语叫做Hakdong Sagori。T-Lound位于一个大多数司机都知道的“设计师俱乐部”(Designer's Club)后面的小巷子里。）
T-Lound从外面看十分引人注目，落地玻璃窗闪闪发亮。而置身其中感觉更棒，里面是大理石地面，灯光十分美妙，有些昏暗。在电子触摸屏菜单上看着照片选择你的鸡尾酒或者威士忌。Lime Mojito 价格为22,000韩圆（约19美元，含10%税费），尽管有些昂贵，但味道或许是首尔城里最好的。许多鸡尾酒──包括以伏特加作基酒的柠檬味“With Some Guys”──也值得尝试。T-Lound的两层楼让人感觉截然不同：楼下像是个红酒吧，气氛温馨，适合放松；楼上要喧闹得多，像是一个俱乐部酒廊，设有舞池和DJ台。
想要找个更为安静的所在，那么几个街区之外就有个绝佳的去处。来自日本的咖啡吧K适合那些希望在舒适的皮沙发里喝上两杯放松一下的人，这家店在新加坡也设有分店。最好的座位能让你看到身着燕尾服的酒吧侍应将冰块切割成整齐的小块，这是日式风格。这里还有一排排让人眼花缭乱的鸡尾酒、威士忌和红酒；如果你不知选什么，那么考虑一下French Connection或者Classic Lime Mojito，这两种酒都很棒。几杯酒下去你或许还想更进一步，买支古巴雪茄。
如果喝到凌晨时分让你觉得难受，办法很简单：把最后一站选在汤店，喝上一碗热腾腾的醒酒汤(haejang-guk)。这种店遍布首尔，而且昼夜经营。只要告诉出租车司机说让他带你到一家haejang-guk-jip。然后就到了该睡觉的时候了。
Jaeyeon Woo
三清洞是行人的地盘，这里最适合步行游览（最大的不足就是这里有时候车水马龙、交通缓慢）。这一地区如今吸引来大批游客，各色店铺在大街小巷遍地开花。（小巷里还散落着很多奇巧的博物馆，包括以小鸡和猫头鹰为主题的艺术品博物馆以及一家馆如其名的“性爱”(Eros)博物馆。）
画廊、精品店、高级餐厅、咖啡店和红酒吧沿街而立，不过这里也并不全是光鲜体面的去处。在三清洞，毗邻法国高级餐厅的可能是一家有着几十年历史的外表破败的干洗店。
许多被称为“韩屋”(hanok)的传统庭院式住宅经过翻修已经变成了咖啡馆和餐厅，经营着从意大利到日本菜等各地菜肴。而这样古色古香的用餐环境在首尔的其他地方已经很难见到了。这些地方供应的食物大多无可挑剔而且价格合理，而且氛围也令人感觉舒适温馨。
三清洞最好的菜肴之一要算是Chez Simon餐厅提供的每日试味套餐了。这是一家只接受预约的法式餐厅，只设有五张餐桌。主厨西蒙•沈(Simon Shim)当年在法国学习文学时，曾在一次聚会上烹饪了一些韩式菜肴。朋友们看出了他的烹饪天赋。“嗨，如果我是你，我才不会去学文学！”他记得一个朋友这么对他说。
沈进入了著名的巴黎烹饪艺术学校蓝带学院(Le Cordon Bleu)学习。2002年获得学位之后，他先后在法国和首尔的柏悦酒店(Park Hyatt)工作。2008年他开设了自己的餐厅，将店址选在三清洞是因为他喜爱这里的宁静。沈说，如果你离开繁忙的大街稍走几步之遥，就会感觉进入到了一个完全不同的世界。
“这片地区位于首尔的中心，然而却紧邻古老的宫殿，”附近咖啡红酒吧Fatum的老板Cho Kuem-ran表示。“大山和喧嚣大都市如此接近的景象也非常独特。” Cho Kuem-ran在这里居住了20多年。
这个有四层楼的酒吧利用地处山坡的地理位置，让客人们有机会在屋顶品尝咖啡、茶和红酒的同时欣赏落日或夜间的景色：左手边是摩天大楼，从中间能看到王宫屋顶，右边则是高耸的北岳山(Mt. Bukak)。如果刮起冷风，你可以要来一条Fatum放在店里一角的“膝盖毯”。
要是愿意沿着大路走上20分钟到卧龙公园(Waryong Park)，就可以看到更好的景色。从观景台可以鸟瞰首尔的夜景，还能够透过一台投币式望远镜观看近景。
如果你开始觉得冷，那么就下山到一处名为“第二名”(Second Best Place)的传统韩国茶室坐坐。这座茶室已经经历了过去35年的沧桑巨变；当时这片地区还只有几家店铺。这间茶室面积不大、屋顶低矮，充满了传统韩国茶香的味道，弥漫着一种让人放松的气氛。
现年70岁出头的老板娘Kim Eun-sook表示，她想出这个名字是为了与餐饮界那些坚称自家最好的“可笑”潮流唱反调。她下决心通过对高品质食物的不懈追求来树立品牌。如果你最近不太走运，那么你或许应该尝尝店里最受欢迎的danpatjuk，它是一种甜甜的红豆粥，里面有大大的糯米丸子、银杏和栗子，粥上面还撒有肉桂粉。在冬至时节吃红豆粥驱避疫鬼是韩国人的传统。
为了在夜晚多逛上几个地方，叫辆出租车，跨过汉江到达首尔的南边──特别是首尔许多时装名品店和摄影棚所在地清潭洞(Cheongdam-dong)。前往首尔最火爆的夜店之一T-Lound，这个名字来自英文单词“lounge”和“round”。（告诉出租车司机去鹤洞站(Hakdong Intersection)，韩语叫做Hakdong Sagori。T-Lound位于一个大多数司机都知道的“设计师俱乐部”(Designer's Club)后面的小巷子里。）
T-Lound从外面看十分引人注目，落地玻璃窗闪闪发亮。而置身其中感觉更棒，里面是大理石地面，灯光十分美妙，有些昏暗。在电子触摸屏菜单上看着照片选择你的鸡尾酒或者威士忌。Lime Mojito 价格为22,000韩圆（约19美元，含10%税费），尽管有些昂贵，但味道或许是首尔城里最好的。许多鸡尾酒──包括以伏特加作基酒的柠檬味“With Some Guys”──也值得尝试。T-Lound的两层楼让人感觉截然不同：楼下像是个红酒吧，气氛温馨，适合放松；楼上要喧闹得多，像是一个俱乐部酒廊，设有舞池和DJ台。
想要找个更为安静的所在，那么几个街区之外就有个绝佳的去处。来自日本的咖啡吧K适合那些希望在舒适的皮沙发里喝上两杯放松一下的人，这家店在新加坡也设有分店。最好的座位能让你看到身着燕尾服的酒吧侍应将冰块切割成整齐的小块，这是日式风格。这里还有一排排让人眼花缭乱的鸡尾酒、威士忌和红酒；如果你不知选什么，那么考虑一下French Connection或者Classic Lime Mojito，这两种酒都很棒。几杯酒下去你或许还想更进一步，买支古巴雪茄。
如果喝到凌晨时分让你觉得难受，办法很简单：把最后一站选在汤店，喝上一碗热腾腾的醒酒汤(haejang-guk)。这种店遍布首尔，而且昼夜经营。只要告诉出租车司机说让他带你到一家haejang-guk-jip。然后就到了该睡觉的时候了。
Jaeyeon Woo
Not long ago, Seoul offered a simple choice for visitors looking for something to do after work: run up the corporate account at the hotel restaurant and bar, or head to Itaewon, the somewhat beat-up area near the U.S. military base where restaurants and bars offer a variety of cuisines.
In recent years, though, Seoul has developed so many appealing restaurants and neighborhoods that a visitor who sticks to those timeworn options is missing out. Top-quality restaurants -- with an array of cuisines -- have sprung up all over the city, particularly near the main business centers in the Gwanghwamun, Gangnam, Seocho and Yeouido neighborhoods. Zagat's, the New York-based restaurant-guide publisher, produced its first Seoul edition earlier this year.
And while the city's obsession with modernization has threatened traditional neighborhoods, there are parts of town where the new blends appealingly with the old. At the top of the list is Samcheong-dong, whose attractive, mountainside perch and proximity to government offices and Gyeongbok Palace -- once the seat of the royal family -- long made it a choice district for aristocrats and civil servants. The official presidential home, the Blue House, is only a few blocks away, and the prime minister's residence is smack in the middle of the neighborhood.
Pedestrians rule in Samcheong-dong, and it's best experienced on foot (the main drag is sometimes bumper-to-bumper with slow-moving traffic). The area now draws visitors, and businesses sprawl in the back alleys as well as on the main street. (The alleys are also home to a quirky collection of museums, including one each for art depicting chickens and owls and one, suitably dubbed Eros, devoted to sensuality.)
Along the main street stand art galleries, boutiques, fine eateries, coffee shops and wine bars, though it hasn't gone overboard with gentility. Samcheong-dong is the sort of area where an upscale French restaurant's next-door neighbor might be a shabby, decades-old dry cleaner.
Many traditional courtyard houses, called hanoks, have been renovated and turned into coffee shops and restaurants, from Italian to Japanese, all in a setting now rare in other parts of Seoul. The food is mostly excellent and reasonably priced, and the atmosphere comfortable and intimate.
One of the neighborhood's best meals is the daily tasting menu at Chez Simon, a five-table reservation-only French restaurant. Chef Simon Shim was a literature student in France when one day he cooked some Korean dishes for a party. Friends noticed his aptitude. 'Hey if I were you, I wouldn't study literature!' he remembers one telling him.
Mr. Shim enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu, the famous Paris culinary-arts school. After getting his degree in 2002, he worked in France and then at the Park Hyatt in Seoul. In 2008, he opened his own place, choosing Samcheong-dong because he liked the serenity. 'If you go slightly off the main busy street, it feels like a totally different world,' Mr. Shim says.
'The area is very central Seoul, and yet is right next to the centuries-old historic palace,' says Cho Kuem-ran, owner of the nearby coffee and wine bar Fatum, and a neighborhood resident for more than 20 years. 'Seeing a mountain so up close in the hustle and bustle of a big city is also very unique.'
The four-story bar makes use of its hillside location by offering patrons a chance to enjoy coffee, tea or wine on the roof and relish the sunset or night-time view: skyscrapers to the left, the palace roofs in the middle and towering Mt. Bukak to the right. (And don't let the wording of the English-language sign, 'viewpoints for couples,' discourage you -- you're welcome on the roof even on your own.) If a cold wind is blowing, you can ask for one of the 'knee blankets' that Fatum keeps in a corner of the shop.
An even better view is available to those willing to take a 20-minute stroll up the main road to Waryong Park. From the observation platform you can look down on the Seoul nightscape, and get a closer view through a coin-operated telescope.
If you start to feel a chill, head back down the hill to Seoul's Second Best Place, a traditional Korean teahouse that has sat here through all the great changes of the past 35 years; back then there were just a few shops in the area. Small and low-ceilinged, filled with scents of traditional Korean teas, it has a relaxing, soothing ambience.
Now in her early 70s, owner Kim Eun-sook said she came up with the name to counter the 'ridiculous' trend among restaurants of insisting that they are the best. She decided to seek recognition instead through a persistent devotion to the best food. If you've had some bad luck recently, you may want to try her top-selling item, danpatjuk, a sweet red-bean soup with a big glutinous rice ball, ginkgos and chestnuts, sprinkled with cinnamon. It's traditional for Koreans to eat it on the winter solstice to ward off evil spirits.
To rev your night up, catch a cab and go across the Han River to Seoul's south side -- in particular, Cheongdam-dong, which is home to many of the city's fashion boutiques and recording studios. Head to T-Lound, from the words 'lounge' and 'round,' one of the hottest nightspots in the city. (Tell the cabbie to go to Hakdong Intersection, or Hakdong Sagori in Korean. T-Lound is in the alley just behind a place called Designer's Club that most drivers know.)
T-Lound is striking from the outside, with floor-to-ceiling windows that seem to glow. It's even nicer from the inside, with marble floors and beautiful, if dim, lighting. Choose your cocktail or whiskey by flipping through touch-screen electronic menus, which include photos. The Lime Mojito, though pricey at 22,000 won (about $19), 10% tax included, may be the best in town. Many cocktails -- including the vodka-based, lemony 'With Some Guys' -- is also worth trying. T-Lound's two levels have distinctly different feels: Downstairs is like a wine bar, intimate and suited to chilling out; upstairs is louder, like a club lounge, with a dance floor and a DJ booth.
For an altogether quieter feel, there's an excellent choice just a block away. Coffee Bar K, an import from Japan that also has a branch in Singapore, caters to those who want to relax on a plush leather couch over a drink or two. The best seat is any one that offers a view of the tuxedoed bartenders carving chunks of ice into neat spheres, Japanese-style. There's a daunting array of cocktails, whiskeys and wines; if you can't make up your mind, consider the French Connection or Classic Lime Mojito; both are excellent. After a few you may even feel like digging deep and buying a Cuban cigar.
If drinking into the wee hours takes its toll on you, help is at hand: Make your last stop one of the around-the-clock soup houses that dot the city and have a hot pot of haejang-guk, or 'hangover soup.' Just ask the cabbie to take you to a haejang-guk-jip. Then it's time for a rest.
Jaeyeon Woo
In recent years, though, Seoul has developed so many appealing restaurants and neighborhoods that a visitor who sticks to those timeworn options is missing out. Top-quality restaurants -- with an array of cuisines -- have sprung up all over the city, particularly near the main business centers in the Gwanghwamun, Gangnam, Seocho and Yeouido neighborhoods. Zagat's, the New York-based restaurant-guide publisher, produced its first Seoul edition earlier this year.
And while the city's obsession with modernization has threatened traditional neighborhoods, there are parts of town where the new blends appealingly with the old. At the top of the list is Samcheong-dong, whose attractive, mountainside perch and proximity to government offices and Gyeongbok Palace -- once the seat of the royal family -- long made it a choice district for aristocrats and civil servants. The official presidential home, the Blue House, is only a few blocks away, and the prime minister's residence is smack in the middle of the neighborhood.
Pedestrians rule in Samcheong-dong, and it's best experienced on foot (the main drag is sometimes bumper-to-bumper with slow-moving traffic). The area now draws visitors, and businesses sprawl in the back alleys as well as on the main street. (The alleys are also home to a quirky collection of museums, including one each for art depicting chickens and owls and one, suitably dubbed Eros, devoted to sensuality.)
Along the main street stand art galleries, boutiques, fine eateries, coffee shops and wine bars, though it hasn't gone overboard with gentility. Samcheong-dong is the sort of area where an upscale French restaurant's next-door neighbor might be a shabby, decades-old dry cleaner.
Many traditional courtyard houses, called hanoks, have been renovated and turned into coffee shops and restaurants, from Italian to Japanese, all in a setting now rare in other parts of Seoul. The food is mostly excellent and reasonably priced, and the atmosphere comfortable and intimate.
One of the neighborhood's best meals is the daily tasting menu at Chez Simon, a five-table reservation-only French restaurant. Chef Simon Shim was a literature student in France when one day he cooked some Korean dishes for a party. Friends noticed his aptitude. 'Hey if I were you, I wouldn't study literature!' he remembers one telling him.
Mr. Shim enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu, the famous Paris culinary-arts school. After getting his degree in 2002, he worked in France and then at the Park Hyatt in Seoul. In 2008, he opened his own place, choosing Samcheong-dong because he liked the serenity. 'If you go slightly off the main busy street, it feels like a totally different world,' Mr. Shim says.
'The area is very central Seoul, and yet is right next to the centuries-old historic palace,' says Cho Kuem-ran, owner of the nearby coffee and wine bar Fatum, and a neighborhood resident for more than 20 years. 'Seeing a mountain so up close in the hustle and bustle of a big city is also very unique.'
The four-story bar makes use of its hillside location by offering patrons a chance to enjoy coffee, tea or wine on the roof and relish the sunset or night-time view: skyscrapers to the left, the palace roofs in the middle and towering Mt. Bukak to the right. (And don't let the wording of the English-language sign, 'viewpoints for couples,' discourage you -- you're welcome on the roof even on your own.) If a cold wind is blowing, you can ask for one of the 'knee blankets' that Fatum keeps in a corner of the shop.
An even better view is available to those willing to take a 20-minute stroll up the main road to Waryong Park. From the observation platform you can look down on the Seoul nightscape, and get a closer view through a coin-operated telescope.
If you start to feel a chill, head back down the hill to Seoul's Second Best Place, a traditional Korean teahouse that has sat here through all the great changes of the past 35 years; back then there were just a few shops in the area. Small and low-ceilinged, filled with scents of traditional Korean teas, it has a relaxing, soothing ambience.
Now in her early 70s, owner Kim Eun-sook said she came up with the name to counter the 'ridiculous' trend among restaurants of insisting that they are the best. She decided to seek recognition instead through a persistent devotion to the best food. If you've had some bad luck recently, you may want to try her top-selling item, danpatjuk, a sweet red-bean soup with a big glutinous rice ball, ginkgos and chestnuts, sprinkled with cinnamon. It's traditional for Koreans to eat it on the winter solstice to ward off evil spirits.
To rev your night up, catch a cab and go across the Han River to Seoul's south side -- in particular, Cheongdam-dong, which is home to many of the city's fashion boutiques and recording studios. Head to T-Lound, from the words 'lounge' and 'round,' one of the hottest nightspots in the city. (Tell the cabbie to go to Hakdong Intersection, or Hakdong Sagori in Korean. T-Lound is in the alley just behind a place called Designer's Club that most drivers know.)
T-Lound is striking from the outside, with floor-to-ceiling windows that seem to glow. It's even nicer from the inside, with marble floors and beautiful, if dim, lighting. Choose your cocktail or whiskey by flipping through touch-screen electronic menus, which include photos. The Lime Mojito, though pricey at 22,000 won (about $19), 10% tax included, may be the best in town. Many cocktails -- including the vodka-based, lemony 'With Some Guys' -- is also worth trying. T-Lound's two levels have distinctly different feels: Downstairs is like a wine bar, intimate and suited to chilling out; upstairs is louder, like a club lounge, with a dance floor and a DJ booth.
For an altogether quieter feel, there's an excellent choice just a block away. Coffee Bar K, an import from Japan that also has a branch in Singapore, caters to those who want to relax on a plush leather couch over a drink or two. The best seat is any one that offers a view of the tuxedoed bartenders carving chunks of ice into neat spheres, Japanese-style. There's a daunting array of cocktails, whiskeys and wines; if you can't make up your mind, consider the French Connection or Classic Lime Mojito; both are excellent. After a few you may even feel like digging deep and buying a Cuban cigar.
If drinking into the wee hours takes its toll on you, help is at hand: Make your last stop one of the around-the-clock soup houses that dot the city and have a hot pot of haejang-guk, or 'hangover soup.' Just ask the cabbie to take you to a haejang-guk-jip. Then it's time for a rest.
Jaeyeon Woo
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