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史学家常常猜测最古老的葡萄酒起源于中东。埃及的考古发现——墓碑上的内容以及陶罐里残留的化学物质——表明葡萄酒的历史可以追溯至西元前5000年左右,而人们在伊朗、土耳其和黎巴嫩也发现了早期葡萄酒的类似遗迹。不过尽管地中海附近的这一地区被认为是葡萄酒的诞生地,但该地区在如今的葡萄酒产业中已经渐渐离开了人们的视线。然而一些优质的葡萄酒仍然来源于中东,常驻香港的葡萄酒咨询师杰克逊(Annabel Jackson)说,这些来自古国的葡萄酒远没有过时。
承旧启新。古国葡萄酒既体现了旧大陆尤其是法国、西班牙和意大利的葡萄酒特点,也体现了新大陆葡萄酒的品质,例如澳大利亚、新西兰和美国。葡萄酒酿造者往往会在采用旧大陆技术的同时尝试一些新的方法和不同种类的葡萄。
红白难辨。古国白葡萄酒和红葡萄酒均为中度酒体,都散发着泥土味而不是果香味,这就使它们在某种程度上可以互相替换——如果蒙上眼罩,你也许都无法分辨出白葡萄酒和红葡萄酒。
口味香醇。法国葡萄酒口味比较温和,酒中的酸成分不那么强烈,某种加州葡萄酒则有热带水果的味道。而要准确描述出古国葡萄酒的口味或许要更难一些——有时带有些许矿物质的味道,其他时候又像是烤腰果的香味。
关注以色列。在以色列的饮食文化中,葡萄酒是十分重要的组成部分。就数量和品质而言,以色列葡萄酒是杰克逊所挑选的中东葡萄酒中的上乘品种。
融汇其中。在这些古老的国家你常常会发现各种各样的葡萄种类。西拉、霞多丽这些常见的品种被广泛使用,而当地自产的一些葡萄品种也被用来酿酒。例如,一瓶黎巴嫩穆萨酒庄(Chateau Musar)的葡萄酒所选取的葡萄品种有些可能是你听说过的,如赤霞珠、歌海娜、神索,而有些你可能未曾听说——敖拜德和默瓦。
价格多样。一瓶上好的古国葡萄酒,如黎巴嫩卡萨拉酒庄(Chateau Kasara)的葡萄酒可以卖到600港元(约77美元),而以色列神灯(Yarden)酒厂酿造的霞多丽白葡萄酒的售价仅为350港元。
Amy Ma
(本文版权归道琼斯公司所有,未经许可不得翻译或转载。)
关键词:葡萄酒入门
Historians have often speculated that the earliest wines were Middle Eastern in origin. Archaeological discoveries — text from tombs and leftover chemicals in ceramic jars — in Egypt suggested wine was around as early as 5000 BC, and similar evidence of early kinds of wine products have been found in Iran, Turkey and Lebanon. But although the area around the Mediterranean Sea is thought to be the birthplace of wine, the region has fallen off the radar in today's wine industry.
But some good wines still come from the Middle East, and Hong Kong-based wine consultant, Annabel Jackson, says these 'very' Old World wines are far from obsolete.
Bridging Old and New. Very Old World wines have qualities indicative of both the Old World — French, Spain and Italian wines, in particular — and the New World, in places such as Australia, New Zealand and the United States. Wine producers often use Old World techniques while experimenting with new technologies and different grapes.
Crossover wines. Very Old World whites and reds are both medium-bodied and full of earthy rather than fruity tones, making them somewhat interchangeable — when wearing a blindfold, it's likely you can't tell the red wines from the whites.
Mellow. Except milder flavors, and less of the sharp acidity you'd find in wines from France or the tropical fruit characteristics you'd find in a California wine. Tastes in very Old World wines may be harder to pinpoint sometimes a hint of minerals and other times toasted cashews.
Keep an eye on Israel. Wine is very much a part of Israeli dining culture, and Isreali wine is Ms. Jackson's pick for the leader of the Middle Eastern wines, in terms of volume and quality.
Mix it up. You'll often find a range of grapes in the very Old World. There's wide use of popular Syrah and Chardonnay grapes, but some indigenous grapes thrown in as well. For example, a bottle of Chateau Musar from Lebanon carries a few varietals that you have probably heard of, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cinsault, and some you haven't—Obaideh and Merwah.
A wide range in price. A good bottle of very Old World wine, such as Chateau Kasara from Lebanon, can run up to 600 Hong Kong dollars (US$77), while a bottle of white Chardonnay from Yarden winery in Israel costs just HK$350.
Amy Ma
But some good wines still come from the Middle East, and Hong Kong-based wine consultant, Annabel Jackson, says these 'very' Old World wines are far from obsolete.
Bridging Old and New. Very Old World wines have qualities indicative of both the Old World — French, Spain and Italian wines, in particular — and the New World, in places such as Australia, New Zealand and the United States. Wine producers often use Old World techniques while experimenting with new technologies and different grapes.
Crossover wines. Very Old World whites and reds are both medium-bodied and full of earthy rather than fruity tones, making them somewhat interchangeable — when wearing a blindfold, it's likely you can't tell the red wines from the whites.
Mellow. Except milder flavors, and less of the sharp acidity you'd find in wines from France or the tropical fruit characteristics you'd find in a California wine. Tastes in very Old World wines may be harder to pinpoint sometimes a hint of minerals and other times toasted cashews.
Keep an eye on Israel. Wine is very much a part of Israeli dining culture, and Isreali wine is Ms. Jackson's pick for the leader of the Middle Eastern wines, in terms of volume and quality.
Mix it up. You'll often find a range of grapes in the very Old World. There's wide use of popular Syrah and Chardonnay grapes, but some indigenous grapes thrown in as well. For example, a bottle of Chateau Musar from Lebanon carries a few varietals that you have probably heard of, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cinsault, and some you haven't—Obaideh and Merwah.
A wide range in price. A good bottle of very Old World wine, such as Chateau Kasara from Lebanon, can run up to 600 Hong Kong dollars (US$77), while a bottle of white Chardonnay from Yarden winery in Israel costs just HK$350.
Amy Ma
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