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休闲服和袋型常服流行了二十年之后，从2000年以来出现了定制服装潮。在《广告狂人》(Mad Men)这类大获成功的时装剧的推动下，英国著名裁缝街萨维尔街(Savile Row)的裁缝店称，过去十年的业务量有了显著的增长。
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伦敦男装店Trunk Clothiers 的董事总经理麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)称，成为穿衣专家的一个标志是对自己的身体外形有着深刻的了解。由于成衣是为大众设计的，这就意味着找到一个好的改衣裁缝至关重要。
将袖子修改到合适状态尤其重要；太长的袖子会使人看起来邋遢。澳大利亚裁缝店P. Johnson 的伊森•纽顿(Ethan Newton)称，如果一件花9000美元买来的上衣袖子长了两英寸，就会使这件衣服看起来只值90美元。他的解释是：无论你愿意为一套成衣花费多少钱，至少要准备购衣款的20%作为修改费用。
当然，如果你只修改衬衣袖子的长度，就用不了那么多钱。在新加坡裁缝店Iris Tailor，将一件Z Zegna 衬衣的袖子剪短三英寸只需花费15新元(约合12美元)，大约是衬衣价格的7%。
领带及围巾制造商Drakes London的创意总监迈克尔•希尔(Michael Hill)称，合适的尺寸对领带来说也很重要。他认为领带能够突显一个人的个性。大多数领带的宽度在七到九厘米之间，他建议拥有中等体型的男士们避开最宽的那种领带，选择七到八厘米的领带比较合适。
对于个头较高的男士来说，领带的长度可能是个难题：Drakes 店中领带的标准长度是147厘米，当他们系好领带后，剩余的长度可能过短。这些男士可能会发现在领带上多花些钱是值得的，尽管他们穿的是普通的成衣。希尔称，Drakes 既出售批量生产的领带，也出售定制领带，店中所制领带最长可以达到180厘米。Drakes 定制领带的起价为125英镑(约合203美元)，客户一次最少要定制三条。
为西服套装选择合适的配饰也会使你更容易从人群中脱颍而出。尤其是口袋方巾可以使人看起来更有情趣。香港男装店The Armoury 的联合创办人马克•曹(Mark Cho )称，一条基本款的白色亚麻口袋方巾永远是男士们可以信赖的选择，总是可以为你的全套行头加分。
当然，你首先得把它正确地叠好。马克•曹建议，丝质口袋方巾可以叠成蓬松式或反向蓬松式，但棉麻质地的方巾最好是折成扁平的三角形塞入口袋，仅露出方巾的一角，这种折法叫做“电视机折”，因为折出来的形状类似于一台电视机。
在使用配饰前了解材质也会对造型有所�明。马克•曹建议将塑胶纽扣改为天然牛角扣，这样能使西服看起来更高档一些。希尔称，使用优质材料制作的领带（例如一条50盎司重的Royal Twill软绸领带）会使整身行头看起来很特别。他解释说，尽管表面看起来很简单，但这种织法的布料一旦被纯手工打造成领带，看起来将会非常特别。
然而，在使用配饰时要避免过度滥用。据萨维尔街裁缝店Norton & Sons的老板派翠克•格兰特(Patrick Grant)称，即使是定制服装也不应该过分追求奇巧花哨。最近被提名为2010年英国男装年度设计师的格兰特说，良好的着装并不意味着什么都敢穿，而是要达到一种细致的平衡，例如，要避开只有5厘米宽的超细领带。虽然这种领带在二十世纪六十年代很常见，但当时也主要是被绿日(Green Day)这类情绪摇滚乐队所采用。
事实上在现如今，简简单单地穿着一件剪裁合体、没有褶皱的西服就能体现出一个人的穿衣品味了。P. Johnson的纽顿说，现在穿西服是一种反潮流的行为，因为对一些人来说，周五穿名牌休闲运动服不再能充分体现出个性，不再令他们感到满足。
Kristiano Ang
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
After two decades of casual wear and sack suits, the '00s saw a notable movement toward custom-made clothing. Egged on by the success of shows such as 'Mad Men,' tailors on Savile Row have reported marked increases in business in the last part of the Noughties.
But with bespoke suits from reputable tailors on the Row costing upwards of 2,500 British pounds (about US$4,000), compared with $600 for a suit jacket and trousers from American clothing retailer J. Crew, dressing with flair might seem an unaffordable luxury. Wearing off-the-rack clothing, however, need not be the mark of an ill-dressed man.
'The mark of a master dresser is a deep understanding of his own physicality,' says Mats Klingberg, managing director of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear store. With off-the-rack clothing being designed for the masses, this means that finding a good alterations tailor is key.
Making the sleeves right is especially important; a too-long sleeve is a trademark of the sloppy dresser. Ethan Newton of P. Johnson, an Australian tailor, says that 'a $9,000 suit two inches too long in the sleeve will look like it's worth all of $90.' His solution: 'Whatever you are willing to spend on a [ready-made] suit, allow at least 20% of that figure for alterations.'
If all you're changing is the sleeve length of a shirt, however, the alterations would cost less. At Iris Tailor in Singapore, cutting three inches off the sleeves of a Z Zegna shirt costs a mere 15 Singapore dollars (US$12), about 7% of the price.
The right size is important with ties, too, says Michael Hill, creative director at the tie and scarf maker Drakes London, who calls ties 'the very thing that personalizes a look.' Most range in width from seven to nine centimeters, and he suggests men with average frames steer clear of the widest ones; a seven- or eight-centimeter tie is more suitable.
For the taller man, tie length can be a concern: A 147-centimeter model, which is the standard length at Drakes, can leave too short a tail when knotted up. Such men might find it worthwhile splurging on ties, even if they wear ready-made suits. Mr. Hill says that Drakes, which sells both off-the-rack and bespoke ties, has made ties as long as 180 centimeters. Bespoke ties from Drakes go for 125 British pounds (US$203), with a minimum order of three at a time.
Picking the right accessories to complement a suit also makes it easier to stand out from the crowd. In particular, pocket squares can help spice up one's look. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, a menswear store in Hong Kong, says that 'a basic white linen pocket square is always reliable and always adds a touch of class to outfits.'
Of course, fold it properly. Silk pocket squares can be stuffed into the jacket pocket in a puff or reverse puff form, but cotton and linen squares, Mr. Chan says, favor folding it into a flat rectangle with 'just a slice of fabric showing', which is called a TV fold since the shape is similar to a TV.
Knowing your material when accessorizing also helps. Mr. Cho advises changing the buttons from plastic to natural horn to make a suit look less cheap. Mr. Hill says that ties made from premium material, like 50-ounce Royal Twill foulard, for instance, can make outfits look special. 'Despite the apparent simplicity,' he explains, '[the way] a cloth like that [knots] once it has been made completely by hand makes for something very special.'
However, avoid the temptation to go crazy when accessorizing. According to Patrick Grant, owner of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, even bespoke clothing shouldn't be 'about indulging fantasies.' Being well-dressed, says Mr. Grant, who was recently named British menswear designer of 2010, 'does not mean wearing everything bold; it's about careful balance.' This can mean, for example, staying away from five-centimeter skinny ties. While common in the 1960s, they are most commonly associated these days with emo-rockers like Green Day.
Indeed today, simply having a well-cut suit with no frills makes a statement. Mr. Newton of P. Johnson says that 'to wear a suit now is bucking the trend' because 'Friday casual and branded sportswear no longer says much of someone being an individual and comfortable in their role.'
Kristiano Ang
But with bespoke suits from reputable tailors on the Row costing upwards of 2,500 British pounds (about US$4,000), compared with $600 for a suit jacket and trousers from American clothing retailer J. Crew, dressing with flair might seem an unaffordable luxury. Wearing off-the-rack clothing, however, need not be the mark of an ill-dressed man.
'The mark of a master dresser is a deep understanding of his own physicality,' says Mats Klingberg, managing director of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear store. With off-the-rack clothing being designed for the masses, this means that finding a good alterations tailor is key.
Making the sleeves right is especially important; a too-long sleeve is a trademark of the sloppy dresser. Ethan Newton of P. Johnson, an Australian tailor, says that 'a $9,000 suit two inches too long in the sleeve will look like it's worth all of $90.' His solution: 'Whatever you are willing to spend on a [ready-made] suit, allow at least 20% of that figure for alterations.'
If all you're changing is the sleeve length of a shirt, however, the alterations would cost less. At Iris Tailor in Singapore, cutting three inches off the sleeves of a Z Zegna shirt costs a mere 15 Singapore dollars (US$12), about 7% of the price.
The right size is important with ties, too, says Michael Hill, creative director at the tie and scarf maker Drakes London, who calls ties 'the very thing that personalizes a look.' Most range in width from seven to nine centimeters, and he suggests men with average frames steer clear of the widest ones; a seven- or eight-centimeter tie is more suitable.
For the taller man, tie length can be a concern: A 147-centimeter model, which is the standard length at Drakes, can leave too short a tail when knotted up. Such men might find it worthwhile splurging on ties, even if they wear ready-made suits. Mr. Hill says that Drakes, which sells both off-the-rack and bespoke ties, has made ties as long as 180 centimeters. Bespoke ties from Drakes go for 125 British pounds (US$203), with a minimum order of three at a time.
Picking the right accessories to complement a suit also makes it easier to stand out from the crowd. In particular, pocket squares can help spice up one's look. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, a menswear store in Hong Kong, says that 'a basic white linen pocket square is always reliable and always adds a touch of class to outfits.'
Of course, fold it properly. Silk pocket squares can be stuffed into the jacket pocket in a puff or reverse puff form, but cotton and linen squares, Mr. Chan says, favor folding it into a flat rectangle with 'just a slice of fabric showing', which is called a TV fold since the shape is similar to a TV.
Knowing your material when accessorizing also helps. Mr. Cho advises changing the buttons from plastic to natural horn to make a suit look less cheap. Mr. Hill says that ties made from premium material, like 50-ounce Royal Twill foulard, for instance, can make outfits look special. 'Despite the apparent simplicity,' he explains, '[the way] a cloth like that [knots] once it has been made completely by hand makes for something very special.'
However, avoid the temptation to go crazy when accessorizing. According to Patrick Grant, owner of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, even bespoke clothing shouldn't be 'about indulging fantasies.' Being well-dressed, says Mr. Grant, who was recently named British menswear designer of 2010, 'does not mean wearing everything bold; it's about careful balance.' This can mean, for example, staying away from five-centimeter skinny ties. While common in the 1960s, they are most commonly associated these days with emo-rockers like Green Day.
Indeed today, simply having a well-cut suit with no frills makes a statement. Mr. Newton of P. Johnson says that 'to wear a suit now is bucking the trend' because 'Friday casual and branded sportswear no longer says much of someone being an individual and comfortable in their role.'
Kristiano Ang
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