在
窄长而低调的平驳领当道多年之后，从高端设计师汤姆•福特(Tom Ford)到快时尚品牌Zara，不少品牌都开始鼓动男士们尝试风格更大胆、更张扬的翻领。有些品牌把翻领设计得更宽，有些品牌设计的翻领则向上“尖耸”。在某些品牌的2013春季系列中，翻领不仅变得更宽，也变得更尖。
这些翻领，与近些年在男装中大行其道的更细窄的平驳领相差甚远，这意味着大多数男性的衣橱中不会有这些款式，也意味著有些男士会觉得有必要置办这些新款翻领西服，以跟上潮流──至少这是设计师和零售商所希望的。
在由巴兹•鲁尔曼(Baz Luhrmann执导、于5月10日上映的影片《了不起的盖茨比》(The Great Gatsby)中，莱昂纳多•迪卡普里奥(Leonardo DiCaprio)也穿着戗驳领西服亮相。布克兄弟(Brooks Brothers)与其他一些品牌合作为这部影片制作男装，目前该品牌出售一款根据迪卡普里奥在片中所穿西服设计的白色戗驳领西服。
研究显示，让男人买套新西服可要费不少功夫。零售数据提供商NPD集团的首席产业分析师马歇尔•科恩(Marshal Cohen)称，普通男性每两年半到三年才买一套新西服，这在零售领域实在是太久了。若非要出席特殊场合（比如正式的家庭活动或求职面试），或是生活方式发生了变化（离婚或重新开始约会），又或是西服已经穿旧或是不再合身，男士不会出手购买一套新西服。
科恩说，在上述情况下，一个普通男性如今拥有两套西服。在互联网时代带来更加休闲的办公室着装之前，一位男士更可能在衣橱中准备至少三套西服。
高档男装设计师迈克尔•巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian)一直在推动戗驳领和略宽一些的翻领。他说大家都有些厌烦了三粒扣的平驳领西服了，是时候超越了，也已有人在追寻有所变化的西服。他所说的“与众不同”，也针对他在最新时装系列上推出的、令人意外的披肩领单排扣西服。此类更为正式的翻领通常出现在无尾半正式晚礼服上。
高端男装品牌康纳利
戗驳领起源于正装。定制服装商、《男士着装》(Dressing the Man)一书的作者雅伦•傅拉瑟(Alan Flusser)称，戗驳领常见于燕尾服，后来也出现在了无尾晚礼服上。
双排扣西服在上世纪20年代流行开来，戗驳领领也随之越来越多。由此一来，单排扣戗驳领西服也开始流行，特别是在夏季取替了双排扣西服。后者在前胸部位的重叠部分多、用布料也多，男士穿着时感觉更热。
David McKnight-Peterson
乔治•阿玛尼的2013春季系列西服采用了大胆的尖耸翻领。
上世纪50年代和60年代，平驳领变窄。到了70年代，翻领变宽且戗驳领又开始重新流行起来。在80年代，双排扣西服卷土重来，重新引燃大家对戗驳领的兴趣，90年代的极简主义则偏向采用更低调的平驳领单排扣西服。过去十年间，修身西服搭配的是更窄的平驳领。
直到最近，除了定制西服之外，戗驳领设计的单排扣西服无论在哪儿都难以找到。
零售商并不期望戗驳领取代平驳领，他们希望戗驳领成为男士衣橱中更新潮的补充。纽约巴尼斯百货男装销售总经理汤姆•卡伦德里安(Tom Kalenderian)说：“它是一种彰显时尚的风格。”目前巴尼斯销售Lanvin和普拉达(Prada)等品牌的单排扣戗驳领西服。该百货公司还在近期的印刷品广告和寄给客户的春季邮寄广告里，主推一款阿玛尼(Armani)的单排扣戗驳领西服。卡伦德里安说，迄今为止最青睐单排扣戗驳领西服的处于时尚前沿的男士，而非典型的华尔街人士。
对零售商而言，翻领更宽的西服或许很难卖得动，正如当年他们花了很长时间才说服男士接受近年流行的窄领修身西服。
网络零售商Gilt现在开始销售一些单排扣戗驳领西服，但该公司负责编辑和设计事务的副总裁泰勒•托雷森(Tyler Thoreson)称，绝大多数商品还是单排扣平驳领西服。他说：“很多男性穿西服的方式并不一定是为了顺应工作场合需要，而是受到当今崇尚休闲、随意自然剪裁的风潮的影响，这些风潮都与平驳领更为搭配。”
确实，这正是戗驳领面临的潜在阻力之一。这是因为从理论上说它被认为更加正式，与平驳领相比，戗驳领的单排扣西服或外套较难用于较休闲的装束，比如说不搭配领带、搭配深色牛仔裤穿。
某些品牌曾尝试让戗驳领外套更百搭更休闲。服装商保罗•斯图亚特(Paul Stuart)的Phineas Cole系列，销售采用真丝羊毛及真丝亚麻混纺面料、提供紫红和宝蓝等色彩选择的单排扣戗驳领外套。Phineas Cole系列的目标客户群是更年轻更有时尚意识的顾客。
Banana Republic在其2013秋季系列中展示了一款黑色天鹅绒面料的窄戗驳领西服，并把它和套头衫及深色羊毛格子长裤搭配在一起。该品牌创意总监西蒙•尼恩(Simon Kneen)说，这身装束展现了一种穿搭戗驳领西服的新方式。
若要使戗驳领外套显得更加休闲，男士着装顾问朱莉•拉斯(Julie Rath)建议可找一款面料不是那么讲究的西服，比如亚麻、席纹呢或青年布的面料。如果面料是是羊毛或真丝，那就挑选更低调的戗驳领款式。此外，带贴袋的西服通常也被认为更休闲。穿着此类西服时，在精美的T恤衫外罩上一件亨利衫、再搭配一条深色牛仔裤，就可打造一种讲究但不失休闲的感觉。
穿平驳领西服时，敞开衬衫的领子、不系领带看上去会很不错，这也是许多男士在办公室外以更运动的方式穿西服的方式。但是，这种休闲风格与戗驳领西服搭配很难显得好看，因为戗驳领太过正式。拉斯说，她不建议一位绅士穿戗驳领而不系领带。
Ray A. Smith
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
After years of slim, subtle notch lapels on men's suits, some labels -- from high-end designer Tom Ford to fast-fashion retailer Zara -- are trying to nudge men into bolder, more pronounced lapels.
In some cases, the lapels are wider. In others, the lapels 'peak' upward. And in some spring 2013 collections, the lapels are both wider and peak.
These lapels are a far cry from the slimmer notch lapels that have reigned in menswear in recent years. And this means that most men won't already have these styles in their closets. It also means some men will feel compelled to buy these new lapel suits to stay current -- at least that's what designers and retailers are hoping.
Men are being presented with an ever-growing range of lapel options on single-breasted jackets: narrow notch lapels, wide-notch lapels, narrow-peak lapels and wide-peak lapels, in addition to standard-width notch and peak lapels. Brands pushing wider or peak -- and sometimes both wider and peak -- lapels on single-breasted jackets this spring include Alexander McQueen, Billy Reid, Gucci, Giorgio Armani and J.Crew.
Peak lapels also appear on Leonardo DiCaprio in Baz Luhrmann's 'The Great Gatsby' movie opening May 10. Brooks Brothers, which collaborated on the men's costumes for the film, currently sells a white peak-lapel suit based on one the actor wears in the film.
It takes a lot to compel a man to buy a new suit, research shows. The average man purchases a new suit once every two and half to three years, according to Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD Group, a retail information provider. That's an eternity in the world of retail. And unless a man has a special occasion (formal family event, job interview), or his lifestyle has changed (divorce, dating again) or he has a suit that has worn out or no longer fits, he's not in the market for a suit.
The average man now owns two suits, if that, Mr. Cohen says. Before the dot-com era ushered in more casual workplace attire, men were more likely to have at least three suits in their closets.
High-end menswear designer Michael Bastian, who has been pushing peak lapels as well as slightly wider lapels, says 'everyone is kind of getting bored with the idea of the three-button notch-lapel jacket. There's got to be more beyond that. There are guys out there looking for something a little different.' By 'different' he also means the surprising single-breasted jackets with shawl lapels in his recent lines. Those more formal lapels are typically found on tuxedo jackets.
For upscale menswear label Canali, the choice to emphasize the peak lapel on single-breasted suits 'follows the spring collection's intention of revisiting a retro, dandy style,' says Elisabetta Canali, the granddaughter of the brand's founder and the company's communications director. The peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is 'a different style for those people who want to dress in a more formal way and appear more fashion forward.'
The peak lapel's origins lie in formal wear. It was typically found on tailcoats and eventually on tuxedo jackets, according to Alan Flusser, author of menswear guide 'Dressing the Man,' and a custom tailor.
Double-breasted suits rose in popularity during the 1920s, which increased the visibility of peak lapels. As a result, peak lapels on single-breasted jackets grew popular, especially during the summer months as a cooler alternative to double-breasted jackets, with their overlapping fronts and additional fabric that made men warmer.
Since then, the single-breasted jacket with a peak lapel has gone in and out of fashion; the notch lapel on a single-breasted jacket has endured as the top seller in the U.S.
In the 1950s and '60s, notch lapels went narrower. In the '70s, lapels got wider and peak lapels began to trend again. The '80s saw the revival of double-breasted suits, reigniting interest in peak lapels. Minimalism in the '90s favored the single-breasted suit with subtler notch lapels. Slimmer-fitting suits in the past decade called for narrower notch lapels.
Until recently, a peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket was hard to find anywhere except on a custom-made suit.
Retailers don't expect peak lapels to replace notch lapels, but rather to become trendier additions to men's wardrobes. 'It's a fashion statement,' says Tom Kalenderian, general merchandise manager of men's at Barneys New York. Barneys is carrying peak-lapel single-breasted jackets from brands including Lanvin and Prada. The retailer highlighted a peak-lapel single-breasted Armani suit in a recent print advertisement and in its spring mailer sent to customers. Sales of single-breasted peak-lapel jackets have so far been strongest with fashion-forward men, 'not your typical Wall Street guy,' Mr. Kalenderian says.
Wider lapels may be a tough sell for retailers, as it took a long time to convince men to squeeze into the recently popular slimmer suits with narrow lapels.
Online retailer Gilt now sells some peak-lapel single-breasted suits, 'but the vast majority is still in the single-breasted notch,' says Tyler Thoreson, Gilt's vice president of men's editorial and creative. 'The way a number of men are wearing their suits is not necessarily for work,' he says. 'It's all about a more casual, less structured take on tailoring right now, which works better with a notch lapel.'
Indeed, that's one of the potential challenges of the peak lapel. Because it is considered more formal, the theory goes, it makes a single-breasted suit or sport coat harder to dress down -- say, without a tie and with dark jeans -- than a notch lapel.
Some labels have attempted to make the peak-lapel sport coat more versatile and casual. Clothier Paul Stuart sells peak-lapel single-breasted sport coats in silk-wool and silk-linen blends in colors such as plum and royal blue in its Phineas Cole line, which is aimed at more youthful, fashion-conscious customers.
Banana Republic showed a black-velvet blazer with a narrow peak lapel worn with a turtleneck and dark plaid wool trousers for its fall 2013 collection. The look 'shows a new way to wear the peak lapel,' says Simon Kneen, Banana Republic's creative director.
To make a peak-lapel sport coat more casual, Julie Rath, a men's style consultant, recommends finding one in a less-dressy fabric such as linen, hopsack or chambray, or selecting a subtler peak if the fabric is wool or silk. Also, a jacket with a patch pocket is generally considered more casual. The jacket can be worn with a henley shirt over a nice T-shirt with dark jeans for a dressy yet casual feel.
A notch lapel can look good worn with a shirt open at the collar and no tie -- the way many men wear their suits in a sportier way outside of work. But this casual style rarely looks good with a peak lapel, as the peak is too formal. 'It wouldn't be my first choice' for a gentleman looking to go without a tie, says Ms. Rath.
Ray A. Smith
In some cases, the lapels are wider. In others, the lapels 'peak' upward. And in some spring 2013 collections, the lapels are both wider and peak.
These lapels are a far cry from the slimmer notch lapels that have reigned in menswear in recent years. And this means that most men won't already have these styles in their closets. It also means some men will feel compelled to buy these new lapel suits to stay current -- at least that's what designers and retailers are hoping.
Men are being presented with an ever-growing range of lapel options on single-breasted jackets: narrow notch lapels, wide-notch lapels, narrow-peak lapels and wide-peak lapels, in addition to standard-width notch and peak lapels. Brands pushing wider or peak -- and sometimes both wider and peak -- lapels on single-breasted jackets this spring include Alexander McQueen, Billy Reid, Gucci, Giorgio Armani and J.Crew.
Peak lapels also appear on Leonardo DiCaprio in Baz Luhrmann's 'The Great Gatsby' movie opening May 10. Brooks Brothers, which collaborated on the men's costumes for the film, currently sells a white peak-lapel suit based on one the actor wears in the film.
It takes a lot to compel a man to buy a new suit, research shows. The average man purchases a new suit once every two and half to three years, according to Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD Group, a retail information provider. That's an eternity in the world of retail. And unless a man has a special occasion (formal family event, job interview), or his lifestyle has changed (divorce, dating again) or he has a suit that has worn out or no longer fits, he's not in the market for a suit.
The average man now owns two suits, if that, Mr. Cohen says. Before the dot-com era ushered in more casual workplace attire, men were more likely to have at least three suits in their closets.
High-end menswear designer Michael Bastian, who has been pushing peak lapels as well as slightly wider lapels, says 'everyone is kind of getting bored with the idea of the three-button notch-lapel jacket. There's got to be more beyond that. There are guys out there looking for something a little different.' By 'different' he also means the surprising single-breasted jackets with shawl lapels in his recent lines. Those more formal lapels are typically found on tuxedo jackets.
For upscale menswear label Canali, the choice to emphasize the peak lapel on single-breasted suits 'follows the spring collection's intention of revisiting a retro, dandy style,' says Elisabetta Canali, the granddaughter of the brand's founder and the company's communications director. The peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is 'a different style for those people who want to dress in a more formal way and appear more fashion forward.'
The peak lapel's origins lie in formal wear. It was typically found on tailcoats and eventually on tuxedo jackets, according to Alan Flusser, author of menswear guide 'Dressing the Man,' and a custom tailor.
Double-breasted suits rose in popularity during the 1920s, which increased the visibility of peak lapels. As a result, peak lapels on single-breasted jackets grew popular, especially during the summer months as a cooler alternative to double-breasted jackets, with their overlapping fronts and additional fabric that made men warmer.
Since then, the single-breasted jacket with a peak lapel has gone in and out of fashion; the notch lapel on a single-breasted jacket has endured as the top seller in the U.S.
In the 1950s and '60s, notch lapels went narrower. In the '70s, lapels got wider and peak lapels began to trend again. The '80s saw the revival of double-breasted suits, reigniting interest in peak lapels. Minimalism in the '90s favored the single-breasted suit with subtler notch lapels. Slimmer-fitting suits in the past decade called for narrower notch lapels.
Until recently, a peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket was hard to find anywhere except on a custom-made suit.
Retailers don't expect peak lapels to replace notch lapels, but rather to become trendier additions to men's wardrobes. 'It's a fashion statement,' says Tom Kalenderian, general merchandise manager of men's at Barneys New York. Barneys is carrying peak-lapel single-breasted jackets from brands including Lanvin and Prada. The retailer highlighted a peak-lapel single-breasted Armani suit in a recent print advertisement and in its spring mailer sent to customers. Sales of single-breasted peak-lapel jackets have so far been strongest with fashion-forward men, 'not your typical Wall Street guy,' Mr. Kalenderian says.
Wider lapels may be a tough sell for retailers, as it took a long time to convince men to squeeze into the recently popular slimmer suits with narrow lapels.
Online retailer Gilt now sells some peak-lapel single-breasted suits, 'but the vast majority is still in the single-breasted notch,' says Tyler Thoreson, Gilt's vice president of men's editorial and creative. 'The way a number of men are wearing their suits is not necessarily for work,' he says. 'It's all about a more casual, less structured take on tailoring right now, which works better with a notch lapel.'
Indeed, that's one of the potential challenges of the peak lapel. Because it is considered more formal, the theory goes, it makes a single-breasted suit or sport coat harder to dress down -- say, without a tie and with dark jeans -- than a notch lapel.
Some labels have attempted to make the peak-lapel sport coat more versatile and casual. Clothier Paul Stuart sells peak-lapel single-breasted sport coats in silk-wool and silk-linen blends in colors such as plum and royal blue in its Phineas Cole line, which is aimed at more youthful, fashion-conscious customers.
Banana Republic showed a black-velvet blazer with a narrow peak lapel worn with a turtleneck and dark plaid wool trousers for its fall 2013 collection. The look 'shows a new way to wear the peak lapel,' says Simon Kneen, Banana Republic's creative director.
To make a peak-lapel sport coat more casual, Julie Rath, a men's style consultant, recommends finding one in a less-dressy fabric such as linen, hopsack or chambray, or selecting a subtler peak if the fabric is wool or silk. Also, a jacket with a patch pocket is generally considered more casual. The jacket can be worn with a henley shirt over a nice T-shirt with dark jeans for a dressy yet casual feel.
A notch lapel can look good worn with a shirt open at the collar and no tie -- the way many men wear their suits in a sportier way outside of work. But this casual style rarely looks good with a peak lapel, as the peak is too formal. 'It wouldn't be my first choice' for a gentleman looking to go without a tie, says Ms. Rath.
Ray A. Smith
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