近
三百年来，伦敦萨维尔街(Savile Row)一直聚集着这座城市的顶级裁缝师。不过如今这种量身定制的传统却面临威胁，原因是租金高昂、裁缝人才稀缺，再加上顾客数量也日渐下滑。
Harry Harrison
约翰•希区柯克(John Hitchcock)
Anderson & Sheppard的董事总经理约翰•希区柯克(John Hitchcock)说，过去一些客户会一天换三次衣服，许多人还有专司打理服装的贴身男仆。现在的人没那么多时间去积累或是维护完美的衣帽行头了。希区柯克于1964年加入这家裁缝店做学徒，学习做裤子。他并未放弃裁缝行业的传统──Anderson & Sheppard是萨维尔定制服装协会(Savile Row Bespoke Association)的创会会员之一，该协会成立于2004年，旨在保护服装定制的艺术。
我们请希区柯克选出每个男人的衣橱中都应当置备的五件经典行头。
一件海军蓝细条纹双排扣西装：很多人觉得双排扣西装给人一种粗野的感觉，精致的海军蓝细条纹能够避免这一点。双排扣西装是最能衬托身形的男式服装之一，它会让穿着者显得更修长挺拔、也更显腰身。这种款式能够让肚子不那么明显，并突出胸部和肩部。
斜纹花呢夹克，颜色为棕色、蓝色或灰色：男人要想让自己的衣橱色彩丰富一些，花呢是最简单易行、同时又是最经典的方式。根据颜色和样式的不同，这样的夹克适合于各种场合穿着；它可以搭配灰色法兰绒裤子，也可以搭牛仔裤；配衬衫和套头衫均无不可，而且由秋至冬都能穿。（好的花呢）十分耐穿，而且穿得越久越有味道。
中灰色卷边法兰绒裤：灰色法兰绒给人一种闲适的感觉，仍然是从事创意产业的客户的最爱。这种裤子可以搭配大多数外套，甚至还可以直接配衬衫和套头衫。不要选择带裤袢的款式，而应该选侧袢或搭肩带扣和系扣裤门。卷边的宽窄很重要，因为窄卷边还不如不要卷。
经典的白色纯棉衬衫：加里•库柏(Gary Cooper)和加里•格兰特(Cary Grant)穿白衬衫是最出众的，穿在他们身上的白衬衫永远那么干净优雅。我自己喜欢的风格是八字领、双层袖口和珍珠母纽扣。不过一定要有一件不带胸袋、也没有拌扣领的衬衫。
单排扣长款海军蓝斜纹大衣，带相配的天鹅绒领：你可以把它穿在任何衣服的外面；就连睡衣都可以，然后你马上就会显得潇洒时尚。上世纪二三十年代那些真正的时尚先锋人物穿这种大衣的时候力求合身，因为他们知道大衣会给人留下最直接的印象。
Kristiano Ang
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
London's Savile Row has been home to the city's top tailors for almost three centuries. These days, however, the bespoke tradition is under threat ─ due tohigh rents, a dearth of tailoring talent, and a decline in customer numbers.
Among those that have felt the pinch is Anderson & Sheppard, a 103-year-old firm whose suits have been worn by Prince Charles, Noel Coward and Tom Ford. When the lease on its Savile Row space expired in 2005, the firm was forced to move to cheaper premises on neighboring Old Burlington Street (only tailors within 100 yards of Savile Row are allowed to use the name).
'[In the past,] some [clients] changed three times in the day, and many had valets who would manage their wardrobes. People [now] have less time to build or maintain the perfect wardrobe,' says John Hitchcock, Anderson & Sheppard's managing director, who joined the tailoring house as an apprentice trouser maker in 1964. Mr. Hitchcock isn't giving up on tailoring heritage ─ Anderson & Sheppard is a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, created in 2004 to help protect the art of bespoke tailoring.
We asked Mr. Hitchcock to pick five classic items that every man should have in his wardrobe.
A navy pinstripe double-breasted suit: A fine navy pinstripe avoids the louder gangster look that some people associate with the double-breasted suit. The double-breasted suit is one of the most flattering garments that a man can wear as it creates a longer line and more defined waist. This hides the stomach and accentuates the chest and shoulders.
A herringbone tweed jacket in brown, blue or gray: Tweed is the easiest and most classic way for a man to bring color into his wardrobe. Depending on the color and pattern, the jacket can be worn in the town or in the country; with gray flannel trousers or with jeans; with a shirt and with a sweater, and throughout autumn and winter. [Good tweeds are] hard wearing and get better with age.
Mid-gray flannel trousers with turn-ups: Gray flannel continues to be a favorite with our customers in the creative industry as it has a relaxed feel. These trousers work with most jackets and even just with a shirt and sweater. Avoid belt loops and choose side tabs or brace buttons and a buttonfly. The width of the turn-ups is important, as it is better not to have any rather than thin ones.
A classic white cotton shirt: Gary Cooper and Cary Grant were champions of the white shirt, as it always looks fresh and elegant. I prefer mine with a semi-cutaway collar, double cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons. [However] always [get one] without a breast pocket or a button down collar.
A single-breasted Chesterfield-style navy-blue herringbone overcoat with a matching velvet collar: You can put this over whatever you are wearing; even pajamas, and you will instantly look smart. The real tastemakers in the 1920s and '30s wore theirs very fitted as they knew that the overcoat creates an immediate impression.
Kristiano Ang
Among those that have felt the pinch is Anderson & Sheppard, a 103-year-old firm whose suits have been worn by Prince Charles, Noel Coward and Tom Ford. When the lease on its Savile Row space expired in 2005, the firm was forced to move to cheaper premises on neighboring Old Burlington Street (only tailors within 100 yards of Savile Row are allowed to use the name).
'[In the past,] some [clients] changed three times in the day, and many had valets who would manage their wardrobes. People [now] have less time to build or maintain the perfect wardrobe,' says John Hitchcock, Anderson & Sheppard's managing director, who joined the tailoring house as an apprentice trouser maker in 1964. Mr. Hitchcock isn't giving up on tailoring heritage ─ Anderson & Sheppard is a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, created in 2004 to help protect the art of bespoke tailoring.
We asked Mr. Hitchcock to pick five classic items that every man should have in his wardrobe.
A navy pinstripe double-breasted suit: A fine navy pinstripe avoids the louder gangster look that some people associate with the double-breasted suit. The double-breasted suit is one of the most flattering garments that a man can wear as it creates a longer line and more defined waist. This hides the stomach and accentuates the chest and shoulders.
A herringbone tweed jacket in brown, blue or gray: Tweed is the easiest and most classic way for a man to bring color into his wardrobe. Depending on the color and pattern, the jacket can be worn in the town or in the country; with gray flannel trousers or with jeans; with a shirt and with a sweater, and throughout autumn and winter. [Good tweeds are] hard wearing and get better with age.
Mid-gray flannel trousers with turn-ups: Gray flannel continues to be a favorite with our customers in the creative industry as it has a relaxed feel. These trousers work with most jackets and even just with a shirt and sweater. Avoid belt loops and choose side tabs or brace buttons and a buttonfly. The width of the turn-ups is important, as it is better not to have any rather than thin ones.
A classic white cotton shirt: Gary Cooper and Cary Grant were champions of the white shirt, as it always looks fresh and elegant. I prefer mine with a semi-cutaway collar, double cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons. [However] always [get one] without a breast pocket or a button down collar.
A single-breasted Chesterfield-style navy-blue herringbone overcoat with a matching velvet collar: You can put this over whatever you are wearing; even pajamas, and you will instantly look smart. The real tastemakers in the 1920s and '30s wore theirs very fitted as they knew that the overcoat creates an immediate impression.
Kristiano Ang
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