说说您对餐饮的最早记忆？
我在阿尔萨斯(Alsace)地区长大——在运河边的斯特拉斯堡(Strasbourg)；我的家族从事煤加工。我小的时候属于三代同堂的年代，吃午饭的人多达15人；吃晚饭则有20人。
整个场景跟个小餐馆似的——地下室里总是堆满了土豆和卷心菜。
小的时候有啥好吃好喝的？
我妈妈在巧克力工厂上班，所以每当我放学回到家时，总能吃上一块夹黑巧克力的面包。我至今记得它散发出的巧克力香。
何时开始对餐饮真正上心？
我16岁生日时，家里人把我带到L’Auberge de L’Ill餐厅，这是家家庭经营的餐厅，但属于米其林(Michelin)三星级。那顿饭让我茅塞顿开，吃完后，我意识到：这就是我想从事的行当。
你干的第一份厨师活是什么？
L’Auberge餐厅的厨师来回穿梭于各个餐桌间，我父亲对他说，“我儿子对你们这行感兴趣；你们若想要找一个一无是处的伙计，他最适合。”事实上他们正在物色学徒。猎人们把野鸡和野兔拿来后，我们就得拔毛以及拾掇。我正儿八经地学会了如何烹制不同季节的菜肴。
您是如何开第一家餐馆的？
我在法国呆了七年，然后又在亚洲呆了五年，1984年我来到伦敦，1985年又去了美国。1991年，我在纽约城开设了自己首家餐馆。投资额很小——只有20万美元——但这是个曲折的学习过程，当厨师与餐馆老板完全是两码事。
你做菜有啥套路？
顺应不同的季节，发挥配料的特色。然后再加入一点个人口味的佐料与调味品：如在有机鸡中加入甘草、一点点盐以及胡椒面，炖出来就是全新口味的鸡肉。
你最喜欢的餐馆是哪一家？
我喜欢肥鸭餐厅”(The Fat Duck) 和阿布衣餐厅(El Bulli)，但我也喜欢泰国的市场摊。
我喜欢新的风味。明天，我打算去赫斯顿•布卢门撒尔(Heston Blumenthal)新开张的餐馆吃晚饭。你去拜见同行时，对方招待你可不含糊。
周末早餐你一般做什么？
我炖一锅鹅汤，每个人自己舀着吃。
您平时如何放松自己？
我在乡间有幢别墅，所以我周末休息，别墅里有座带池塘的小花园。本人从不听音乐，在餐馆时，你每天和太多的人打交道。静心养性是我的最爱。
让-乔治•冯格利希滕是许多家餐厅的厨师兼老板，包括让-乔治(Jean-Georges)、绸缎商厨房（The Mercer Kitchen）以及ABC Kitchen。他最近刚在伦敦的W酒店(W Hotel)新开张了Spice Market餐厅。
译者：常和
http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001037916
What is your earliest memory of food?
I grew up in Alsace – in Strasbourg, by the canal; the family business was coal handling. It was still in the days when three generations would live under the same roof. There were 15 people for lunch; 20 for dinner.
It was like a small restaurant – the cellar was always full of potatoes and cabbages.
What was a food or drink treat as a child?
My mother worked in a chocolate factory, so when I came home from school I had a piece of baguette with dark chocolate in it. I remember her smelling like chocolate.
When did you start to take food seriously?
For my 16th birthday my family took me to L’Auberge de L’Ill, which was family-run but had three Michelin stars. It was a revelation. After that meal I realised: this is what I want to do.
What was your first job as a chef?
The chef at L’Auberge was going from table to table, and my father said, “My son is interested in the business; if you’re looking for someone who’s good for nothing, here he is.” They were actually looking for an apprentice. A hunter brought in pheasant and hare and we had to pluck and clean them. I really learnt how to cook with the seasons.
How did you start your first restaurant?
I spent seven years in France, then I went to Asia for five years. I came to London in 1984, and then America in 1985. In 1991 I opened my first restaurant in New York City. The investment was very small – $200,000 – but it was a learning curve. Being a chef and a restaurateur are two different jobs.
What are your rules?
To respect the season and the quality of ingredients. Then you bring a personal touch of seasoning and spices; for example, an organic chicken with liquorice and a little salt and pepper is a new chicken.
What is your favourite restaurant in the world?
I like the Fat Duck or El Bulli, but I like market stalls in Thailand too.
I like new flavours. Tomorrow, I’m going to Heston Blumenthal’s new restaurant, Dinner. When you go to see a colleague they treat you amazingly.
What do you make for a weekend brunch?
I do a one-pot meal like goose stew and everyone serves themselves.
How do you relax?
I have a house in the country so I take my weekends off. We have a little garden with a pond. I never listen to music. At the restaurant, you deal with so many people. Silence is my best friend.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is chef-proprietor of many restaurants, including Jean-Georges, Mercer Kitchen and ABC Kitchen. His latest opening is Spice Market at the W Hotel, London.
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