Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images
2010年6月21日，模特在意大利米兰的杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)2011春夏男装展上走台。
夏
天正款款走来，你可能很想脱下西装，扯掉领带。在亚洲尤其如此，因为这里的湿度往往高达90%。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)说，“干燥炎热的气候通常没问题，但湿热让人很难显得干爽利落。”
下面是几个让人在炎热天气中依然保持清爽外型的小窍门。
1、选对面料。时尚历史学家布鲁斯•伯伊尔(G. Bruce Boyer)说，技术进步已让这个选择变得更简单，“现在有数百种热带专用精纺面料可供选择”。
举例而言，意大利男装品牌杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)研发出一种名为“清凉效果”(Cool Effect)的面料，用澳洲超细羊毛制成，能抵挡灼人阳光的侵扰。该面料有独特的加工和染色流程，能让深色纤维具备几乎等同于白色纤维的光线反射效果。在杰尼亚2011年春夏款新品中，该面料被用于休闲西装和正式套装上。
甚至连创立于1836年的伦敦Holland & Sherry等老牌面料商也开始加入这一行列。伯伊尔很喜欢Holland & Sherry新推出的7.5盎司精纺羊毛面料，说它“轻薄透气得不可思议，同时还非常抗皱。”
泡泡纱、亚麻和棉布等轻薄面料也很适合炎热的天气。伯伊尔写的《加里•库柏：经久不衰的风格》(Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style)一书将于2011年10月出版，他在书中把这些面料称为夏季西装的“主流面料”，但也警告那些在保守办公环境下工作的人小心选择，因为这些面料虽然看上去很美，但容易起皱。
就衬衫而言，棉布是首选。香港Armoury男装店的共同创始人马克•曹(Mark Cho)建议尝试一下“轻纺并有一点纹理感”的针织棉。虽然府绸很受欢迎，但马克说这种重纺棉可能“有点太容易贴住皮肤了”。
2、不要衬里。马克说，衬里能让便服西装更贴身，但在亚洲酷热地带，多一层衬里会让人出更多的汗，因此“布料能少则少”。建议选择半夹里或四分之一夹里的，它们只在上衣前片的内侧有衬里，或干脆完全没有任何衬里。
马克的店里有几款无衬里的运动型便服西装，售价在18,000港币到20,000港币之间（约2,300美元到2,600美元），都是意大利品脾，如Liverano & Liverano和La vera Sartoria Napoletana。该店还有日本品牌Ring Jacket的两件套无衬里春夏款西装，售价9,900港币。
3、服饰简洁。伯伊尔建议避免穿双袖衬衫和双排扣上衣，太厚的领带也不适合，还是改戴无里布的蝶形领结为好。
伯伊尔说，至于鞋子，轻质的单底皮鞋会让人感觉很清爽。
此外，也可以考虑颜色较淡的浅口便鞋、德比鞋和镂花皮鞋，马克说这些是“替换掉冬天传统黑色和褐色皮鞋的很好选择”。
不过，话说回来，夏日炎炎时尽量减少户外时间也是个不错的策略。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的克林伯格建议，在公事包里多放上一件衬衫和一些湿纸巾。
实在得外出的话，走在没有阳光直射的道路一侧也能起到一些作用。
Kristiano Ang
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
关键词：男装
With summer approaching, it can be tempting to cast off your jacket and tie.
This is especially true in Asia, where humidity levels often top 90%. 'Dry heat is usually not a problem,' says Mats Klingberg of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear shop, '[But] humidity makes it next to impossible [to look] crisp.'
Here's how to look cool in the heat.
The right kind of fabric. Technology has made this task easier, says fashion historian G. Bruce Boyer. Today, there are 'hundreds of tropical-weight worsteds to choose from.'
The Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for instance, has developed a 'Cool Effect' fabric made of Australian superfine wool that offers protection against the sun's rays. The material has an exclusive finishing and dyeing process that enables dark fabrics to have almost the same reflective properties as white material. It was used to make casual blazers, formal suits and trousers in the Zegna spring/summer 2011 collection.
Even traditional fabric houses such as London's Holland & Sherry, established in 1836, are getting into the act. Mr. Boyer is a fan of Holland & Sherry's new 7.5-ounce wool worsted cloth, which he says is 'incredibly light and airy, yet very wrinkle resistant.'
Lightweight material such as seersucker, linen and cotton are also popular fabrics in hot weather. Indeed, Mr. Boyer, whose book 'Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style' will be published in October, calls them the 'dominant cloths' of summer suits. But he cautions those who work in conservative environments: While these fabrics can be beautiful, they also have a propensity to wrinkle.
For shirts, cotton is the material of choice. Mark Cho, co-founder of the Armoury, a menswear shop in Hong Kong, recommends trying out cotton in pinpoint weaves that are 'lightly woven and have a bit of texture.' While poplin is a popular choice, Mr. Cho says that the tightly woven cotton may 'stick to the skin a little too easily.'
Skip the lining. While the lining of a jacket helps it sit better on the body, additional layers will cause you to sweat more, and in sweltering Asian climes, says Mr. Cho, 'every little bit counts.' Check out half-lined or quarter-lined jackets, where only the interior fronts of the jacket are covered, or go with one that's completely unlined.
Mr. Cho's store stocks several unlined sport jackets that cost between 18,000 Hong Kong dollars and 20,000 Hong Kong dollars (US$2,300 to US$2,600) from Italian clothiers, such as Liverano & Liverano and La vera Sartoria Napoletana. The store also has a two-piece unlined spring/summer suit from Japanese maker Ring Jacket for HK$9,900.
Keep accessories light. Mr. Boyer says double-shirt cuffs, double-breasted jackets, and thick neckwear should be avoided. Consider an unlined bow tie instead.
On your feet, single-sole shoes in lightweight leather help tremendously, says Mr. Boyer.
Also, consider footwear like loafers, split-toe derbies (shoes with open lacing) and brogues in lighter colors, which Mr. Cho says offer a 'good alternative to the traditional blacks and browns' of winter.
At the end of the day though, simply minimizing your time outdoors is one strategy. Mr. Klingberg, of Trunk Clothiers in London, advises keeping an extra shirt in your briefcase and moist facial tissues.
When you have to go out, walking on the shady side of the street also helps.
Kristiano Ang
This is especially true in Asia, where humidity levels often top 90%. 'Dry heat is usually not a problem,' says Mats Klingberg of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear shop, '[But] humidity makes it next to impossible [to look] crisp.'
Here's how to look cool in the heat.
The right kind of fabric. Technology has made this task easier, says fashion historian G. Bruce Boyer. Today, there are 'hundreds of tropical-weight worsteds to choose from.'
The Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for instance, has developed a 'Cool Effect' fabric made of Australian superfine wool that offers protection against the sun's rays. The material has an exclusive finishing and dyeing process that enables dark fabrics to have almost the same reflective properties as white material. It was used to make casual blazers, formal suits and trousers in the Zegna spring/summer 2011 collection.
Even traditional fabric houses such as London's Holland & Sherry, established in 1836, are getting into the act. Mr. Boyer is a fan of Holland & Sherry's new 7.5-ounce wool worsted cloth, which he says is 'incredibly light and airy, yet very wrinkle resistant.'
Lightweight material such as seersucker, linen and cotton are also popular fabrics in hot weather. Indeed, Mr. Boyer, whose book 'Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style' will be published in October, calls them the 'dominant cloths' of summer suits. But he cautions those who work in conservative environments: While these fabrics can be beautiful, they also have a propensity to wrinkle.
For shirts, cotton is the material of choice. Mark Cho, co-founder of the Armoury, a menswear shop in Hong Kong, recommends trying out cotton in pinpoint weaves that are 'lightly woven and have a bit of texture.' While poplin is a popular choice, Mr. Cho says that the tightly woven cotton may 'stick to the skin a little too easily.'
Skip the lining. While the lining of a jacket helps it sit better on the body, additional layers will cause you to sweat more, and in sweltering Asian climes, says Mr. Cho, 'every little bit counts.' Check out half-lined or quarter-lined jackets, where only the interior fronts of the jacket are covered, or go with one that's completely unlined.
Mr. Cho's store stocks several unlined sport jackets that cost between 18,000 Hong Kong dollars and 20,000 Hong Kong dollars (US$2,300 to US$2,600) from Italian clothiers, such as Liverano & Liverano and La vera Sartoria Napoletana. The store also has a two-piece unlined spring/summer suit from Japanese maker Ring Jacket for HK$9,900.
Keep accessories light. Mr. Boyer says double-shirt cuffs, double-breasted jackets, and thick neckwear should be avoided. Consider an unlined bow tie instead.
On your feet, single-sole shoes in lightweight leather help tremendously, says Mr. Boyer.
Also, consider footwear like loafers, split-toe derbies (shoes with open lacing) and brogues in lighter colors, which Mr. Cho says offer a 'good alternative to the traditional blacks and browns' of winter.
At the end of the day though, simply minimizing your time outdoors is one strategy. Mr. Klingberg, of Trunk Clothiers in London, advises keeping an extra shirt in your briefcase and moist facial tissues.
When you have to go out, walking on the shady side of the street also helps.
Kristiano Ang
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