当
纽约电影制片人玛姬•贝茨(Maggie Betts)穿着价值400美元的黑色丝裤参加一个正式的家庭宴会时，她母亲大为错愕。贝茨说，我妈妈说那裤子看起来就象宽松运动裤。贝茨的一个朋友说她穿的是松垮的衬裤，而一个表妹说贝茨看起来就像《星球大战》电影里面的天行者卢克(Luke Skywalker)。
Rachel Rachel Roy
设计师Rachel Rachel Roy在今秋推出了低价灯笼裤系列
2008~春季出现在T台的时候，市场预计灯笼裤会成为转瞬即逝的潮流。灯笼裤裆部很低，裤管肥大，通常在脚踝或小腿部位扎着。上世纪八十年代末，这一裤型因饶舌歌手哈默(M.C. Hammer)而广为流传。很多批评人士认为，灯笼裤是史上最令人难以恭维的时尚潮流之一。洛杉矶一家精品店的老板席尔瓦(Cameron Silver)说，当他第一次看到灯笼裤的时候，他觉得这是自己所见过最丑陋的裤型。在时尚博客上，灯笼裤被比做是“土豆口袋”、“松垮的尿布”或是“缠在两腿间的桌布”。
即便是在前卫时尚圣经的《Vogue》杂志上，灯笼裤也不受待见。《Vogue》总编安娜•温图尔(Anna Wintour)说，坦率的说，灯笼裤不是我喜欢的。
然而灯笼裤的流行势头令人吃惊。今年秋天，从Zara、H&M到梅西百货(Macy's)和萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)，气球形状的灯笼裤一直热卖不衰。设计师瑞秋•罗伊(Rachel Roy)今年秋天在梅西百货推出了一个低价服装系列。她说，这个季节自己服装中卖的最好的就是两款售价80美元左右的灯笼裤。电子商务网站Net-a-porter.com也推出了几款灯笼裤，包括一条售价800美元的亮片黑色灯笼裤。该网站采购主管罗杰斯(Holli Rogers)说，灯笼裤卖的真的非常好。
一些灯笼裤爱好者解释说，他们喜欢这一新颍时尚潮流，甚至享受穿灯笼裤招致的嘲笑。
今年33岁的珍妮佛•埃迪(Jennifer Eddy)说，她的朋友觉得灯笼裤很吓人。不过，这位洛杉矶电影导演助理迫不及待地想去买一条。埃迪喜欢灯笼裤，因为它不同于和她衣橱里已有的样式。她说，朋友的嘲笑只不过让我更加兴致高昂。
其他人则喜欢吸引关注的感觉。纽约律师朱莉娅•科洛瓦斯基(Julia Kolovarsky)穿着灯笼裤在萨克斯第五大道购物，穿在她细瘦的腿上，那条灯笼裤看上去就像一个巨大的垃圾袋。她说，他们说他们的，一些人就是不习惯看到这样的式样。
灯笼裤完全背离了过去几年的紧身裤潮流，要适应它还得付出点儿代价。24岁的让•霍尔(Jean Hall)说，她穿着American Apparel的非洲印花灯笼裤在布鲁克林骑车时，灯笼裤的低裤裆卷到了自行车脚蹬里，让她摔了一跤。和她一起骑车的朋友随即就把这件事写到了微博网站Twitter上。
纽约帕森斯时尚设计学院(Parsons)的教授兼时尚历史学者贝斯•丹屈夫•查尔斯顿(Beth Dincuff Charleston)将灯笼裤的回归与其他过时潮流令人难以想像地再次出现相提并论，例如带羽毛的乌鱼发型、厚重的书呆子眼镜以及卡车司机帽。
她说，这是一种反时尚。如果你能够穿好它，你就知道自己极其潮流。穿丑服装是个勇敢的举动。
《Vogue》编辑弗吉尼亚•史密斯(Virginia Smith)首次在一些设计师的2008年春季时装展上看到灯笼裤时，她觉得这种服装更适合出现在T型台而不是现实生活中。她说，每个人当时都觉得对此潮流有所保留。
但史密斯说，在看到这一时尚再次出现在T台上后，最终你会觉得看习惯了，并开始尝试，灯笼裤要么适合你，要么就不适合。最近的一个晚上，史密斯穿上了设计师王大仁(Alexander Wang)设计的一款海军丝灯笼裤。
据美国马萨诸塞州塞勒姆州立大学(Salem State College)的历史教授费什(Gayle Fischer)说，灯笼裤被认为起源于印度，18世纪首次进入西方世界。费什2001年出版了一本《裤子与权力》(Pantaloons and Power)的书。阿梅利亚•布卢姆(Amelia Bloomer)等美国女权主义者在19世纪中期接受了这一舒服的穿着，灯笼裤的名字正是来自她的名字。
对当时不想穿着裙子的大胆女性来说，松垮的灯笼裤象征着自由。这不仅是因为灯笼裤是一种大胆的表白，也是因为女性发现灯笼裤比当时其他的男性替代服装更具魅力。费什说，当时和现在一样，女性在公开场合穿着灯笼裤会遭到大肆嘲讽。
灯笼裤在1911年取得时尚胜利，当时前卫的巴黎妇女开始穿着设计师保罗•波烈(Paul Poiret)设计的带有东方风情的设计。保罗•波烈因为将女性从紧身胸衣中解放出来而成名。电影导演尤伯连纳(Yul Brynner)在1956年的电影《国王与我》(The King and I)中将灯笼裤引入大屏幕，但灯笼裤随后在时尚舞台上消失了数十年，直到上世纪七十年代伊夫•圣洛朗(Yves Saint Laurent)使得这一裤型再次复活。
上世纪八十年代末，夸张风格的灯笼裤随着歌手哈默再次出现在夜总会。对那些听着哈默的饶舌音乐长大的人来说，灯笼裤会令他们自然而然地想到哈默。哈默的真名是斯坦利•伯勒尔(Stanley Burrell)。法比奥拉•贝拉卡沙(Fabiola Beracasa)是纽约的一名时尚顾问，她是灯笼裤的早期追随者。她曾经穿着灯笼裤参加一次艺术品拍卖会。贝拉卡沙回忆说，当她在欣赏一幅画时，一名陌生人拍拍她的肩膀大声说“哈默时刻！”，随后他们开始跳“哈默的侧滑舞步”。
哈默拒绝置评。他的发言人说，哈默正努力将自己重新定义为一名社会媒体专家，因此远离了灯笼裤。
在看到杂志上明星蕾哈娜(Rihanna)和菲姬(Fergie)等女明星穿着更加宽松的灯笼裤后，30岁的巴尔的摩私人健身教练阿米娜•罗丝(Amina Ross)也动心花60美元买了条较瘦的灯笼裤。
但当罗丝穿着灯笼裤去健身房教课时，她的学生们都侧目而视。最终一名学生问道，这裤子是什么？罗丝说，为了缓和气氛，自己说了一番话。罗丝坦承，自己是哈默的长期歌迷，她在八年级时第一次听演唱会就是哈默的“2 Legit 2 Quit”巡回演唱会。罗丝说，如果谁还想对她的灯笼裤再说什么的话，她不想听到。
Rachel Dodes
When Maggie Betts wore a $400 pair of black silk pants to a formal family dinner, her mother was appalled. 'She said they looked like sweatpants,' the New York filmmaker recalls. A friend accused her of wearing 'droopy drawers,' while her cousin said she resembled Luke Skywalker.
'I feel like I look very chic in my harem pants,' says Ms. Betts, 34 years old, of one of this fall's hottest fashion trends. 'Anybody who makes fun of me doesn't know the truth and is a loser.'
Harem pants -- low-slung, voluminous trousers that are typically gathered at the ankle or calf -- were expected to be a fleeting fad when they appeared on runways for spring 2008. The look, popularized by rapper M.C. Hammer in the late 1980s, is considered by many critics to be one of the most unflattering fashion trends of all time. 'These are the ugliest things I have ever seen,' Cameron Silver, a Los Angeles boutique owner, says he thought when he first spotted them. On fashion blogs, the bloomers are being likened to 'a potato bag,' a 'saggy diaper' and 'a tablecloth knotted between the legs.'
Even at Vogue, the bible of edgy fashion, the pants raised eyebrows. 'To be honest, they are not my favorite,' says Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour.
Instead, harem pants have had surprising legs. This fall, the balloon-like bloomers have been selling briskly at stores ranging from Zara and H&M to Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue. Designer Rachel Roy, who launched a lower-priced line at Macy's this fall, says two harem styles around $80 are among her top sellers this season. E-commerce site Net-a-porter.com is offering several styles, including an $800 black sequined pair. 'They have performed really, really well,' according to buying director Holli Rogers.
Some harem-pants fans explain they enjoy the novelty of the trend, and even revel in the ridicule they invite.
Jennifer Eddy, 33, says her friends find the look to be horrifying. Regardless, the Los Angeles-based film director's assistant can't wait to buy a pair. Ms. Eddy, who likes the fact that they are different from anything she already has in her closet, says her friends' insults 'just put more fuel in my fire.'
Others like the attention. 'People comment on them. Some people are not used to seeing anything like that,' says Julia Kolovarsky, a New York lawyer who was shopping at Saks Fifth Avenue in a pair that resembled a giant trash bag with tiny legs.
A radical departure from the skinny-pants trend of the past few years, the baggy trousers can take some getting used to. Jean Hall, 24, says the low-slung crotch of her American Apparel African-print harem pants got caught on her bike pedal while she was riding through Brooklyn, causing her to fall off. Her friend, who was riding with her, wrote about the incident on Twitter.
Beth Dincuff Charleston, a professor and fashion historian at Parsons, the New School for Design in New York, likens the harem's return to the unlikely resurgence of other odd fashion trends, such as the feathered mullet hairdo, thick nerd glasses and trucker hats.
'It's a form of antifashion,' says Ms. Dincuff. 'If you can pull it off, you know you're incredibly stylish. It's a gutsy move to wear ugly clothes.'
Vogue's fashion editor Virginia Smith thought the styles were more suited to the runway than reality when she first saw them at some designers' spring 2008 fashion shows. 'Everyone was like, 'Hmmm, I'm not so sure about that,'' Ms. Smith says.
But after seeing the style reappear on the runway, Ms. Smith says, 'eventually your eye gets used to it, and you try it, and it either works for you or it doesn't.' It worked for her: On a recent evening, she was sporting a navy silk pair of harem pants by the designer Alexander Wang.
Harem pants, which are believed to have originated in India, first made their way to the West in the 18th century, according to Gayle Fischer, professor of history at Salem State College, in Salem, Mass., and author of the 2001 book 'Pantaloons and Power.' American feminists like Amelia Bloomer adopted the comfortable look, to which she lent her name, in the mid-1800s.
For daring women who didn't want to wear skirts back then, blousy bloomers symbolized freedom. Not only did they make a strong statement, but women found them more attractive than any masculine alternative available at the time. Then, as now, women wearing the pants in public were 'profoundly ridiculed,' Ms. Fischer says.
Harem pants scored a fashion victory in 1911 when avant-garde Parisian women started wearing the Eastern-inspired designs of couturier Paul Poiret, known for liberating women from the corset. Yul Brynner brought them to the silver screen in the 'The King and I' in 1956, but they didn't appear in fashion for decades, until Yves Saint Laurent resurrected them in the 1970s.
The billowy style re-emerged with M.C. Hammer in the club scene of the late 1980s. For those who grew up listening to the rapper's music, the pants evoke an automatic association with Mr. Hammer, whose given name is Stanley Burrell. Fabiola Beracasa, a New York fashion consultant who was an early adopter of harem pants, was wearing a pair while admiring a painting at an art auction when a stranger tapped her on the shoulder. 'Hammer time!' he shouted, before they both began dancing 'the M.C. Hammer side shuffle,' she recalls.
Mr. Burrell declined to comment. His publicist said he's trying to redefine himself as a social-media expert, and, as such, is distancing himself from the pants.
Amina Ross, a 30-year-old personal trainer from Baltimore, was moved to buy a slimmer $60 pair after seeing celebrities like Rihanna and Fergie wearing more voluminous versions in magazines.
But when she showed up at her gym to teach a class, her students looked askance. 'What are these pants?' one student finally asked. To defuse the situation, Ms. Ross says, 'I gave a speech.' She confessed that she is a longtime fan of M.C. Hammer and that her first concert, when she was in the eighth grade, was his '2 Legit 2 Quit' tour. And if anyone had anything else to say about her pants, Ms. Ross said, 'I don't want to hear it.'
Rachel Dodes
'I feel like I look very chic in my harem pants,' says Ms. Betts, 34 years old, of one of this fall's hottest fashion trends. 'Anybody who makes fun of me doesn't know the truth and is a loser.'
Harem pants -- low-slung, voluminous trousers that are typically gathered at the ankle or calf -- were expected to be a fleeting fad when they appeared on runways for spring 2008. The look, popularized by rapper M.C. Hammer in the late 1980s, is considered by many critics to be one of the most unflattering fashion trends of all time. 'These are the ugliest things I have ever seen,' Cameron Silver, a Los Angeles boutique owner, says he thought when he first spotted them. On fashion blogs, the bloomers are being likened to 'a potato bag,' a 'saggy diaper' and 'a tablecloth knotted between the legs.'
Even at Vogue, the bible of edgy fashion, the pants raised eyebrows. 'To be honest, they are not my favorite,' says Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour.
Instead, harem pants have had surprising legs. This fall, the balloon-like bloomers have been selling briskly at stores ranging from Zara and H&M to Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue. Designer Rachel Roy, who launched a lower-priced line at Macy's this fall, says two harem styles around $80 are among her top sellers this season. E-commerce site Net-a-porter.com is offering several styles, including an $800 black sequined pair. 'They have performed really, really well,' according to buying director Holli Rogers.
Some harem-pants fans explain they enjoy the novelty of the trend, and even revel in the ridicule they invite.
Jennifer Eddy, 33, says her friends find the look to be horrifying. Regardless, the Los Angeles-based film director's assistant can't wait to buy a pair. Ms. Eddy, who likes the fact that they are different from anything she already has in her closet, says her friends' insults 'just put more fuel in my fire.'
Others like the attention. 'People comment on them. Some people are not used to seeing anything like that,' says Julia Kolovarsky, a New York lawyer who was shopping at Saks Fifth Avenue in a pair that resembled a giant trash bag with tiny legs.
A radical departure from the skinny-pants trend of the past few years, the baggy trousers can take some getting used to. Jean Hall, 24, says the low-slung crotch of her American Apparel African-print harem pants got caught on her bike pedal while she was riding through Brooklyn, causing her to fall off. Her friend, who was riding with her, wrote about the incident on Twitter.
Beth Dincuff Charleston, a professor and fashion historian at Parsons, the New School for Design in New York, likens the harem's return to the unlikely resurgence of other odd fashion trends, such as the feathered mullet hairdo, thick nerd glasses and trucker hats.
'It's a form of antifashion,' says Ms. Dincuff. 'If you can pull it off, you know you're incredibly stylish. It's a gutsy move to wear ugly clothes.'
Vogue's fashion editor Virginia Smith thought the styles were more suited to the runway than reality when she first saw them at some designers' spring 2008 fashion shows. 'Everyone was like, 'Hmmm, I'm not so sure about that,'' Ms. Smith says.
But after seeing the style reappear on the runway, Ms. Smith says, 'eventually your eye gets used to it, and you try it, and it either works for you or it doesn't.' It worked for her: On a recent evening, she was sporting a navy silk pair of harem pants by the designer Alexander Wang.
Harem pants, which are believed to have originated in India, first made their way to the West in the 18th century, according to Gayle Fischer, professor of history at Salem State College, in Salem, Mass., and author of the 2001 book 'Pantaloons and Power.' American feminists like Amelia Bloomer adopted the comfortable look, to which she lent her name, in the mid-1800s.
For daring women who didn't want to wear skirts back then, blousy bloomers symbolized freedom. Not only did they make a strong statement, but women found them more attractive than any masculine alternative available at the time. Then, as now, women wearing the pants in public were 'profoundly ridiculed,' Ms. Fischer says.
Harem pants scored a fashion victory in 1911 when avant-garde Parisian women started wearing the Eastern-inspired designs of couturier Paul Poiret, known for liberating women from the corset. Yul Brynner brought them to the silver screen in the 'The King and I' in 1956, but they didn't appear in fashion for decades, until Yves Saint Laurent resurrected them in the 1970s.
The billowy style re-emerged with M.C. Hammer in the club scene of the late 1980s. For those who grew up listening to the rapper's music, the pants evoke an automatic association with Mr. Hammer, whose given name is Stanley Burrell. Fabiola Beracasa, a New York fashion consultant who was an early adopter of harem pants, was wearing a pair while admiring a painting at an art auction when a stranger tapped her on the shoulder. 'Hammer time!' he shouted, before they both began dancing 'the M.C. Hammer side shuffle,' she recalls.
Mr. Burrell declined to comment. His publicist said he's trying to redefine himself as a social-media expert, and, as such, is distancing himself from the pants.
Amina Ross, a 30-year-old personal trainer from Baltimore, was moved to buy a slimmer $60 pair after seeing celebrities like Rihanna and Fergie wearing more voluminous versions in magazines.
But when she showed up at her gym to teach a class, her students looked askance. 'What are these pants?' one student finally asked. To defuse the situation, Ms. Ross says, 'I gave a speech.' She confessed that she is a longtime fan of M.C. Hammer and that her first concert, when she was in the eighth grade, was his '2 Legit 2 Quit' tour. And if anyone had anything else to say about her pants, Ms. Ross said, 'I don't want to hear it.'
Rachel Dodes
没有评论:
发表评论