2010年9月29日

体味北京夜生活 After Hours: Beijing

竞争对手上海相比,北京没有那么喧嚣的繁华,历史的气息更为厚重。这里有气势宏伟的政府和商业办公楼,有天安门和紫禁城这样壮丽恢宏的建筑,点缀其间的还有几片舒适宜人的夜生活娱乐区域──现代风格和古典风格皆有。

Stefen Chow for The Wall Street Journal
那里花园
从胡同出发,星罗棋布的小巷连接着依然是北京心脏的四合院群落,尽管历经多年的破坏和改造,依然有一些四合院留存下来。有两家最棒的四合院餐厅经营的都是云南菜:一家是一直以来备受食客青睐的大理院子 (Dali Courtyard),位于钟鼓楼附近的一条胡同里,另一家则是滇客滇来 (Dianke Dianlai)。

这两家餐厅每晚的菜肴都是由厨师来决定的。与北京的众多餐馆不同,滇客滇来的特色菜是海鲜,尤其是薄荷色拉配龙虾以及香茅草烤三文鱼。大理院子通常会上一道罗非鱼让客人分享,另外还有其它一些云南特色菜,如辣炒蘑菇和干炸虾等。

Stefen Chow for The Wall Street Journal
派乐坊酒屋
这些餐馆的菜往往是辣的,啤酒可谓最佳搭档,但品酒专家也能在胡同里得偿夙愿。派乐坊酒屋(Palette Vino)位于东四十条路口附近的一条胡同内,酒单上有330种葡萄酒,主要来自澳洲、意大利和西班牙。按北京的标准来看,价格还是合理的(中国的进口关税让葡萄酒变得有点贵),从每瓶160元到900元不等(约合23.50美元到132.50美元)。菜肴则是地中海风味。

那里花园 (Nali Patio)地处北京最活跃的夜生活娱乐区三里屯,是一个四面围合的六层四合院建筑,里面有许多酒吧和餐厅,周末吸引了大量的人流。晚餐的最佳场所是三楼的Mosto餐厅,环境舒适而又亲切,菜品走高端路线,建议头菜不妨品尝一下煎鹅肝或章鱼色拉,主食点澳洲肉眼牛排或新西兰羊排。隔壁是Apothecary餐厅,一个北京的俊男靓女经常出没的地方,主推鸡尾酒,厚厚的酒单上列出了主要酒品的起源,有些是经典鸡尾酒,有些则是Apothecary特调的。

Stefen Chow for The Wall Street Journal
书虫吧
从那里花园步行五分钟,来到三里屯南街,这里拥有更具文化气息的品酒方式。书虫吧(The Bookworm)是北京最好的英文类书籍阅读场所,也是一个咖啡屋和深夜酒吧,还是各种文学和音乐沙龙的举办地。

再走两分钟,就能看到1949会所(1949 Hidden City)建筑群,其原址是北京机电研究院。这里的“全鸭季”(Duck de Chine)餐厅也是四合院风格,招牌菜是北京烤鸭。出了餐厅就是一个室外的Bollinger香槟吧──主推酒品想必你也想到了:Bollinger香槟。

北京一些最潮的夜生活娱乐场所位于饭店里面。在三里屯,从那里花园往北走,有一家名叫瑜舍(Opposite House)的精品酒店,里面有不少很好的餐饮场所,从早餐到休闲餐,应有尽有,比如Mesh和Punk酒吧等。

稍远一点是柏悦酒店(Park Hyatt),位于建外大街南侧,建外SOHO餐饮娱乐办公区附近。柏悦酒店的66层有个名叫北京亮(China Grill)的牛排餐厅,有着全北京最佳的视野,至少在能见度高的时候是这样。第6层是秀吧 (Xiu),有现场音乐表演和露天酒吧,开业首年就已成为北京最热门的娱乐场所之一。同在柏悦酒店的Room BMK集餐厅口酒吧口夜总会为一体,最近开业后也引起巨大反响。原因何在?因为这里有英国名厨布莱恩•马克南镇守,代表着北京最顶尖的美食水平。Room的室内装潢也很华美,包括时尚艺术家雨果•达尔顿(Hugo Dalton)绘制的 上作品。

如果你还没玩够,不妨移步北京的地标式建筑“工人体育场”,这里有许多这个城市最时髦的新式酒吧,比如,装饰豪华口以黑色为主题的George's酒吧。年轻的鸡尾酒调酒师乔治•周(George Zhou)说,自己小时候看汤姆•克鲁斯(Tom Cruise)主演的电影《鸡尾酒》(Cocktail),从此迷上了调酒师这个职业;不过还好,他这间酒吧注重的是调制鸡尾酒,而不是电影中的泡妞调情。你可以在这些地方尽情畅游,直到凌晨五点天色发白。

详细情报

大理院子
地址:东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号
电话:86-10-8404-1439

滇客滇来
地址:东城区朝阳门大方家胡同8号
电话:86-10-6512-0930

派乐坊酒屋
地址:东四十一条5号
电话:86-10-6405-4855

Mosto
地址:三里屯北路81号那里花园三楼
电话:86-10-5208-6030

Apothecary
地址:三里屯北路81号那里花园三楼
电话:86-10-5208-6040

书虫吧
地址:南三里屯路4号楼
电话:86-10-6586-9507

全鸭季
地址:朝阳区工体北路4号院1949内(太平洋百货南门对面)
电话:86-10-6501-8881

瑜舍
地址:朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼
电话:86-10-6417-6688

秀吧
地址:朝阳区建外大街2号银泰中心6层
电话:86-10-8567-1838

Room bmk
地址:朝阳区建外大街2号银泰中心

George's酒吧
地址:工人体育场12号门
电话:86-10-6553-6299

Andrew Peaple

(本文版权归道琼斯公司所有,未经许可不得翻译或转载。)
 
 
Beijing doesn't have quite the pizzazz of its rival Shanghai. It's a more monumental city, from its imposing government and company offices to mammoth sites like Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. But dotted around the capital are several intimate areas -- both modern and ancient -- for an evening's entertainment.

Start in the hutongs, the network of back streets lined with courtyard homes that are still the heart of the city, despite years of destruction and redevelopment. Two of the best courtyard restaurants offer food from Yunnan province, in southern China: longtime favorite Dali Courtyard, down a hutong not far from Beijing's Drum and Bell Towers, and Dianke Dianlai.

The form is to enjoy the dishes the chef chooses on a particular evening. Unusually for a Beijing restaurant, Dianke Dianlai's highlights are seafood, particularly the lobster with mint salad and salmon roasted on a bamboo stick. Dali usually serves tilapia fish to share, along with other Yunnan specialities such as spicy mushrooms and fried shrimp.

Beer is the best accompaniment to the sometimes spicy food, but there are hutong experiences for oenophiles, too. Palette Vino, tucked down an alley near the Dongsishitiao junction, focuses on wines from Australia, Italy and Spain on its 330-bottle list. Prices are reasonable by Beijing standards -- import duties make wine a little expensive in China -- with bottles ranging from around 160 to 900 yuan (about $23.50 to $132.50). The food is Mediterranean-inspired.

In Sanlitun, Beijing's liveliest night-life area, Nali Patio is an enlosed six-story courtyard area filled with bars and restaurants that attract quite a crowd on weekends. The best dining option is Mosto, on the third floor. The menu is high-end -- try the seared foie gras or octopus salad to start, followed by the Australian rib-eye steak or the New Zealand rack of lamb -- and the setting is relaxed and intimate. Just next door is Apothecary, a haunt of Beijing's beautiful people that takes its cocktails seriously: A thick menu details the origin of its key drinks, both classics and Apothecary's own.

A more cultural approach to drinking is just a five-minute walk from Nali Patio, off Sanlitun South Street. The Bookworm, one of the city's best sources of English-language books, doubles as a coffee shop and late-night bar, as well as a venue for the likes of literary talks and musical evenings.

Two minutes farther on is another take on the courtyard theme, in the 1949 Hidden City complex -- former home of the Beijing Machine and Electricity Institute. Duck de Chine's signature dish is of course Beijing roast duck. Outside the restaurant is the outdoor Bollinger bar -- again, the speciality is no surprise: the namesake Champagne.

Some of Beijing's trendiest night spots are in hotel complexes. In Sanlitun, just up from Nali Patio, the boutique hotel Opposite House has great places to eat and drink from breakfast through to the small hours, including the bars Mesh and Punk.

A little further away, on the 66th floor of the Park Hyatt -- on the south side of Jianguomen Avenue and just off the popular Jianwai Soho area of offices, shops and cafes -- is China Grill, a steak-focused restaurant with arguably Beijing's best view, at least when the smog lifts. Down on the sixth floor is the bar Xiu, with live music and a wide-open terrace, which in its first year has already become one of the city's most popular. Causing a buzz, too, is Room BMK, a restaurant-cum-bar-cum-nightclub that recently opened in the same building as the Park Hyatt. Why the buzz? British-born Brian McKenna, Beijing's top celebrity chef. The look is splashy, too, including wall art by the fashionable Hugo Dalton.

If you're looking to extend the evening further, head to the landmark Workers' Stadium. The site is home to some of the city's funkiest new bars, like the sleek, black-furnished George. Young cocktail specialist George Zhou says he gained an interest in bartending from watching the Tom Cruise movie 'Cocktail' as a boy, but luckily his place is about the craft of cocktails, not the flash. And you can enjoy them until five in the morning.

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THE DETAILS

Dali Courtyard

67 Xiaojingchang Hutong

Gulou Dong Dajie

86-10-8404-1439

Dianke Dianlai

8 Dafangjia Hutong,

off Chaoyangmen Nanxiaojie

86-10-6512-0930

Palette Vino

5 Dongsi Shiyitiao

86-10-6405-4855

Mosto

Third floor, Nali Patio

81 Sanlitun Beilu

86-10-5208-6030

Apothecary

Third floor, Nali Patio

81 Sanlitun Beilu

86-10-5208-6040

The Bookworm

Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road

Duck de Chine

Gongti Beilu, behind Pacific

Department Store

86-10-6501-8881

Opposite House

11 Sanlitun Beilu

86-10-6417-6688

Xiu

Sixth floor, Yin Tai Centre

2 Jianguomenwai Dajie

86-10-8567-1838

Room bmk

Yin Tai Centre

2 Jinaguomenwai Dajie

George's

Gate 12, Worker's Stadium

86-10-6553-6299

Andrew Peaple
 

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