2011年7月13日

新加坡江诗丹顿珍藏展 A Piece of Storied Swiss Timekeeping

士钟表公司江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)在亚洲的一次展览上展出了一些最为精致的具有历史意义的钟表,以满足亚洲钟表爱好者强大的购买力。

这次展览在新加坡国家博物馆(National Museum of Singapore)举办,展出这家拥有255年历史的日内瓦公司加工制造的180枚钟表。这是江诗丹顿自成立以来第一次重大的遗产公开展览活动。

该公司总裁胡安-卡洛斯口托里斯(Juan-Carlos Torres)说,新加坡"这个小地方"有"相当多的顾客、相当多的收藏者、相当多的鉴赏家。"上个月,卡洛斯来到新加坡为此次展览揭幕。

卡洛斯说,公司全球收入的55%来自亚洲顾客──如果算上居留欧洲的亚洲顾客,这个比例会上升到65%。

瑞士钟表业联合会(Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry)表示,2010年,瑞士钟表业53%的出口产品销往了亚洲。

江诗丹顿公司此次展览将持续到8月14日。从这次展览可以看出该公司这些年来在产品方面的重大变化──比如,在20世纪早期从怀表到腕表之间的过渡。这些展品还体现出在一枚钟表的设计过程中对细节的极端重视,所有钟表的加工制造都要求在接近造币厂的条件下进行,这意味着最细微的细节也都清晰可辨。

从一些表中可以看出江诗丹顿在珐琅工艺方面的高超技艺。这些表的正面和背面的微小画像上展现了出行、大自然、狩猎的场面和一些知名艺术品的微缩像。

这次展览展出了一块据说是1775年出自公司创立者之手的银制怀表,以及一块完成于1824年表壳上绘有一幅珐琅意大利地图的怀表。

托里斯说,当前,瑞士法郎的相对强势对出口的影响以及黄金和钻石价格的飙升都对瑞士钟表业产生了一些冲击。

他还说,虽然亚洲市场很重要,但是江诗丹顿公司很少会为迎合亚洲顾客的品位而更改其设计风格。

托里斯说,"几年前,我们针对日本市场做了一点改动,将几个系列产品改小了一点。(但是)我觉得中国人买瑞士表时,他们想要的是地地道道的瑞士货。"

Sam Holmes

(本文版权归道琼斯公司所有,未经许可不得翻译或转载。)


Switzerland's Vacheron Constantin has brought some of its fanciest historic timepieces to an exhibition in Asia, in a nod to the buying power of the region's watch aficionados.

The display at the National Museum of Singapore features about 180 watches from the 255-year-old Geneva based company's own collection and marks the first time Vacheron has taken its heritage pieces on the road.

Singapore has 'a lot of customers, a lot of collectors, a lot of connoisseurs in a small place,' said Juan-Carlos Torres, the company's chief executive, who was in the city-state to open the exhibition last month.

Mr. Torres says about 55% of the company's global revenue is derived from Asian customers─the proportion rises to about 65% when Asian customers in Europe are included, he says.

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said about 53% of the sector's exports went to Asia in 2010.

The Vacheron exhibition, which runs until August 14, shows that there have been some major changes to the product over the years─such as the shift to wristwatches from pocket watches in the early 20th century. Some of the excruciating attention to detail required to design one of the pieces is also evident in the display and the near-mint condition of all the showpieces means the finest details are still visible.

Some watches show Vacheron's knack for enamelwork, with the faces and the backs of the watches showing miniature depictions of travel, nature, hunting and reproductions of great works of art.

The exhibition includes a 1775 silver pocket watch thought to be the first watch created by the company's founder, and an 1824 pocket watch with an enamelwork map of Italy on the case.

These days, Mr. Torres said, business is challenged by the impact of the relative strength of the Swiss franc on exports and the soaring costs of gold and diamonds.

He also said that despite the importance of the Asian market, the company does little to alter design to cater to Asian tastes.

'Years ago we changed a little bit for the Japanese market, where we made specific series a little bit smaller,' Mr. Torres said. '[But] I think when the Chinese buy a Swiss watch, they expect a Swiss watch.'

Sam Holmes

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