2011年7月18日

拿什么配三千美元天价鞋? What to Pair With $3,000 Shoes

制鞋生产厂商George Cleverley以用怪异的兽皮(如1786年随一艘船沉没的俄罗斯驯鹿皮)缝制手工鞋而闻名。据该公司的首席执行长小乔治•格拉斯哥(George Glasgow Jr)说,在西方,这个英国品牌赢得了温斯顿•丘吉尔(Winston Churchill)、德怀特•艾森豪威尔(Dwight Eisenhower)、拉尔•劳伦(Ralph Lauren)等名人主顾。

Courtesy George Glasgow Jr.
George Cleverley首席执行长小乔治•格拉斯哥(George Glasgow Jr)
现在,Cleverley希望他们的产品能够获得亚洲顶级名流的青睐。

去年,该公司与首尔的两家高档百货商店合作,一起销售该公司生产的鞋。二月份,该公司首次在北京、首尔、新加坡举行了针对特定客户的专场展示会──在过去的二十年里,该公司已经在日本进行了很多次这样的专场展示会。明年,澳洲百货商店将开始销售Cleverley的成鞋。

"美国仍旧(占)我们国际业务的大多数份额,但是(亚洲)高档手工产品市场发展迅速,"格拉斯哥说。他从金融行业出来之后,接管了他的父亲在1958年创立的这家企业。

为了开发亚洲市场,格拉斯哥将于九月份飞往新加坡和香港,推销公司生产的鞋。他们生产的鞋,贵的一双要价可以达到2,300英镑(约3,700美元),加工制作周期达五个月。

他向《亚风尚生活》记者透露了他的一些个人穿着和生活方面的喜好。

您现在身上穿的是什么牌子?

这西服是深灰色细条纹、12盎司法兰绒单排扣西服,出自Anderson & Sheppard公司,配Sean O'Flynn白色衬衣,领带是Drakes生产的蓝色毛纺领带。皮鞋是黑色小牛皮的Anthony Cleverley丘吉尔系列,鞋带是牛皮仿制的,这种鞋带设计是Cleverley的经典特征(这种装饰性鞋带用真皮制成)。脚上穿的这双深蓝色袜子是Pantherell公司生产的。

您最不喜欢穿什么衣服?

吊带裤!我喜欢看别人穿着的样子,但不适合我穿。

闲暇外出的时候,您穿什么衣服?

我喜欢穿James Perse休闲服。那种纯棉衣服轻软舒适。因为我有很多时间要在洛杉矶度过,所以需要轻薄一点的衣服。在家时,我喜欢穿Cleverley深蓝色的羊绒拖鞋。

您买过最贵的衣服是哪件?

一件Huntsman生产的很独特的花呢夹克。那种花呢料子是在苏格兰艾雷岛上专门为Huntsman加工的。当你看到那件夹克有多棒时,你就会觉得价格无所谓。那件衣服穿着多年都会让我感觉特别好。

计划中的下一笔比较大的花销是什么?

我想给自己订做一双深蓝色小牛皮材质的巴莫洛松紧带便鞋。我觉得,深蓝色小牛皮就像黑色一样,将成为新的经典。

在时尚服饰方面,最不应该犯的错误是什么?

穿了一套漂亮的西服却搭配了一双很糟糕的鞋子。

您最得意的一笔花销是什么?

我在洛杉矶买了房子。

您最喜欢的服装设计师是谁?

我喜欢Ralph Lauren的Purple Label。

最喜欢的珠宝商是哪家?

宝格丽(Bulgari)。尼古拉•宝格丽(Nicola Bulgari)穿Cleverley鞋已经有好多了。我发现,无论是他的珠宝,还是他订做的鞋,都很有特点。

您最喜欢的裁缝店是哪家?

Anderson & Sheppard

您最喜欢哪个牌子的牛仔裤?

Diesel Denim Gallery

您最喜欢哪个牌子的西服?

因为我住在洛杉矶,一年到头都需要穿轻薄一点的衣服。我经常穿浅灰色的"威尔士亲王布料"(就是浅纹格子布)。冬天里,我经常穿深灰色或细条纹蓝色羊绒西服和高腰裤。在衬里的选择上,我比较前卫,夏天的时候,喜欢针脚颜色和西服衬里颜色相一致的紫色和蓝色衬里。目前,我还经常穿我十年前买的第一套定制西服,每周都要穿一次。

晚礼服的风格

我喜欢穿带有大尖翻领的双排扣深蓝色马海毛晚礼服。翻起的袖口为丝绸材质,和翻领的材质相一致。

橱柜里的锺爱物

我的第一双Cleverley定制靴已经穿了11年,现在仍旧结实得很。如果这双靴子能讲话的很,那么它肯定能告诉大家一些不寻常的经历……

您喜欢的腕表

爱彼(Audemars Piguet)公司制造的皇家橡树精钢(Royal Oak Offshore)腕表

您最喜欢的太阳镜

我喜欢那副伦敦E.B. Meyrowitz用牛角和龟甲制作的眼镜架。那副眼镜架完全由手工制作,不同于大多数设计师的眼镜架。我最喜欢他们那些二十世纪六十年代风格的经典眼镜架。

座右铭

生活不是彩排,第一次就要成功。

偶像

查理•瓦特(Charlie Watts)。他风度翩翩,对时尚有着敏锐的嗅觉。他经常根据自己的座车来搭配鞋子和西服!

您喜欢的洗发精

Bumble & Bumble洗发水

润肤品

Anthony Oil-Free面部保湿露

健身馆

落日广场大道(Sunset Plaza Drive)的Equinox 健身俱乐部(位于洛杉矶)和David Lloyd 健身俱乐部(位于伦敦)。

Spa水疗美容

比佛利山庄(Beverly Hills Hotel)的莱珀妮(La Prairie)

体育锻炼

我每周游泳三到四次,每次100个来回。每周,我还设法抽空在室内健身自行车上锻炼三次。

您最喜欢的跑鞋

耐克跑鞋

您喜欢观看的体育运动

英超联赛(English Premier League)。我支持切尔西足球俱乐部(Chelsea Football Club),我买他们的季票已经买了15年还多。我和父亲一有空就去看他们的比赛。

您喜欢从事的体育运动

足球(英式足球)和滑雪

出行方式

陆虎揽胜越野车(Range Rover)

您喜欢的手机

iPhone

您喜欢的电脑

17英寸MacBook Pro.(苹果的首席设计师)乔纳森•艾夫(Jonathan Ive)是Cleverley的忠实顾客,所以我不应有其他选择!

音乐

滚石乐队(Rolling Stones)、酷玩乐队(Coldplay)、里昂王族乐队(Kings of Leon)、戴维圭塔乐队(David Guetta)。

您喜欢电子书还是传统的印刷书?

一直喜欢传统的书。

Kristiano Ang

(本文版权归道琼斯公司所有,未经许可不得翻译或转载。)


Bespoke shoemaker George Cleverley is known for making hand-stitched shoes out of exotic hides such as Russian reindeer leather from a ship that sank in 1786. In the West, the British brand has won the likes of Sir Winston Churchill, Dwight Eisenhower and Ralph Lauren, according to Chief Executive George Glasgow Jr.

Now, Cleverley is hoping to woo top names in Asia, too.

Last year, the company partnered with two luxury department stores in Seoul to carry its shoes. In February, it held inaugural trunk shows in Beijing, Seoul and Singapore─building on the trunk shows it has held in Japan for the past two decades. Next year, department stores in Australia will start selling ready-made Cleverley shoes.

'The USA still [comprises] the majority of our international business but [Asia is] a booming market for handmade luxury items,' says Mr. Glasgow, who left a career in finance to take over the business, founded in 1958, from his father.

To capitalize on that market, Mr. Glasgow is flying to Singapore and Hong Kong in September to promote his shoes, which can cost upward of £2,300 (US$3,700) and take as long as five months to make.

He shared some of his style tips with Scene Asia.

What are you wearing right now?

I'm wearing a charcoal-gray pinstripe 12-ounce flannel, single-breasted suit from Anderson & Sheppard. A white Sean O'Flynn shirt with a wool knit blue tie by Drakes. A pair of black calf Anthony Cleverley Churchill [collection] shoes with imitation lacing, which is a classic Cleverley feature [in which leather is made to look like laces]. Dark blue Pantherella socks.

What's the one thing you'll never wear?

Suspenders! I like the look on others but they don't work well on me.

What do you put on when you're just hanging out?

I like James Perse. The cotton is very soft and a comfortable fit for me. Given that I spend a lot my time in Los Angeles, I need lightweight clothes. I wear Cleverley midnight-blue cashmere slippers around the house.

What's the most expensive piece of clothing you've ever bought?

A unique tweed jacket by Huntsman. The tweed is woven especially for Huntsman on the Isle of Islay in Scotland. The price is irrelevant when you see how great the jacket is and that I'll get years of enjoyment out of it.

What will your next big purchase be?

I'm going to make myself a midnight-blue calf, elastic-sided balmoral shoe with laces. I think midnight-blue calf is the new black.

What's the worst fashion mistake?

Wearing a nice suit with a bad pair of shoes.

Best buy

My house in Los Angeles.

Favorite fashion designer

I like Ralph Lauren's Purple Label.

Favorite jeweler

Bulgari. Nicola Bulgari has been wearing Cleverley for years and I find his new designs, both in jewelry and his shoe orders, to be unique.

Favorite tailor

Anderson & Sheppard

Favorite jeans

Diesel Denim Gallery

Favorite suits

Given that I live in Los Angeles, I need lightweight suits year round. I wear light-colored grey and Prince of Wales [also known as glen-plaid] checks a lot. In winter, I wear dark grey or pinstripe blue cashmere suits with high-rise trousers. I'm more adventurous with the linings and like purples and blues with matching stitching in my summer suits. I still wear my first bespoke suit, which is over 10 years old, once a week today.

Tuxedo style

I wear double-breasted midnight-blue mohair tuxedos with large peak lapels. I have turn-back cuffs in silk, which match the lapels.

Favorite item in your closet

My first pair of Cleverley bespoke boots are 11 years old and still going strong. If boots could talk they would have a few stories to tell…

Favorite watch

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

Favorite sunglasses

I love my horn-and-shell frames by E.B. Meyrowitz from London. They are completely made by hand and you don't see them everywhere like most designer frames. They have classic models from the 1960s which are my favorite.

Motto

Life is not a dress rehearsal, so make sure you get it right the first time.

Icon

Charlie Watts. He is a very elegant man and has an excellent sense of style. He often matches his shoes and suits with his car collection!

Shampoo

Bumble & Bumble

Moisturizer

Anthony Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer

Gym

Equinox on Sunset Plaza Drive [in Los Angeles] and David Lloyd [in London].

Spa

La Prairie at the Beverly Hills Hotel

Workout

I swim 100 laps three to four times a week and I try to spin three times a week.

Running Shoes

Nike

Sport you watch

English Premier League. I support Chelsea Football Club and have had season tickets for 15-plus years. My father and I go to as many games as possible.

Sport you play

Football [soccer] and skiing

Mode of transport

Range Rover

Mobile

iPhone

Computer

17-inch MacBook Pro. [Apple head designer] Jonathan Ive is a loyal Cleverley customer so I can't switch!

Music

The Rolling Stones, Coldplay, Kings of Leon and David Guetta.

E-book or old book?

Always old book.

Kristiano Ang

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