两年前，并非只有全球经济轰然倒下，随着金融机构纷纷倒闭，旨在推广每周五穿便服的努力也随之折戟沉沙。年景不好时得穿正儿八经的西装，然而，如今穿着开领衬衫与斜纹布裤子成长起来的新锐一代站在衣柜前突然间显得束手无策，因为没有一件能"镇柜"的正装。
"自2009年春季以来，男士正装所发生的一切都是由雷曼(Lehman Brothers)的倒闭所引发的，"英国男性时尚杂志《GQ》副主编罗伯特-约翰斯顿(Tim Johnston)如是说。"经济危机发生后，原先一直不太在意外在形象的男士感受到了要穿正装的压力。许多男士觉得无法做到，但也明白不能再象以往那样随随便便地穿休闲装了。"
可喜的是，如今有"第三条路"可供选择：男士衣服与裤子分开单穿的时代已然到来。虽说上身着一种风格的西装外套，而下身穿另一种风格的裙装或者裤子对于女性来说并不陌生，但对男士来说，这却是个革命性的理念。
需要提示的是：已有针对当代年轻男士的系列品牌上市了，它们突出更为特立独行的服装风格。由Kilgour前裁剪师克莱夫-德比(Clive Derby)创办的成衣品牌Rake专注于把男士的西装式外套与裤子巧妙搭配（售价675英镑起）。"关键是要灵活多变，"德比说。"每一件（西装外套或裤子）都是单独销售：西装外套与裤子分开卖后，它们仍是可以堂而皇之单穿的衣服。"
在伦敦的汤姆-史威尼(Thom Sweeney) 裁缝店，分开单卖的服装占到了营业额的40%（售价从380英镑起），至于如何搭配穿的标准则由裁剪师汤姆-魏迪特(Thom Whidet)和卢克-史威尼(Luke Sweeney)自行决定。"便装要穿得象模象样不是件容易的事，况且也更为棘手，"魏迪特说。"我们就自己尝试穿深蓝色运动上衣与灰色法兰绒裤子，"史威尼说，"顾客也意识到便装可以定做。"
由Windowpane推出的方格子西装外套搭配素色紧身裤（售价从895英镑起）如今成了服装单穿的标志性搭配，它们"多数采用方格子法兰绒料（而不是斜纹布料），原因是它们重量要轻一点，我们把它称为 "都市款斜纹布"，摸上去不僵硬，不起毛，看上去也不压抑，"魏迪特说。"我们通常暗示顾客定做深蓝色及灰色的套装，另外再建议对方做两件其它颜色的裤子和衣服配着穿。"
帕特里克-格兰特(Patrick Grant)是英国成衣品牌E Tautz（售价从595英镑起）的主管，他说，"单穿服装如今成了'新兴金融行业'（对冲基金与私募基金）从业者的统一款式，他们有意把自己塑造成不穿正装的行业。衣橱诠释了他们在商界的身份和地位——"我们与过去的金融行业不一样，穿得也与众不同，原因就是我们觉得推出的是与众不同的金融产品。"
听听纽约商人吉姆-夏诺斯(Jim Chanos)是怎么说的，"大多数时间我穿正装，但现在我越来越多地是穿着西装外套和单裤去出差。我是公司的头头，所以我得确立公司的规矩。但是，我们是资金管理公司，工作环境有时并不适合穿西装，对冲基金界比银行要更为随意些。"
同样，有这么一位投资银行家，相对于穿正装，他更喜欢服饰单穿，他指出："我不想显得太过拘谨，特别是参加公司内部的会议时。如果我马上要坐飞机去出差，到了目的地后直接赴宴去，在那场合我得看上去很精干，这时单穿式服饰就再合适不过了。"
在格兰特看来，罗洛-皮雅纳(Loro Piana)与Cucinelli这些欧洲的时尚品牌对衣服单穿的潮流起了推波助澜的作用。"意大利高端时尚品牌在世界各地不断攻城拔寨，此举大大推动了柔和风格、无衬垫式开士米料夹克的流行，而开士米布料做裤子并不合适。"格兰特说顾客正帮助建立能融入其它元素的单穿式服装的"组合库"。
英国百货公司同样见证了男装销售出现的新变化。据塞尔福里奇百货公司(Selfridges)统计：2000年，其正装部的夹克销售额同比增长了48%，各种款式的单裤的销售额同比增长了27%，而西服销售额的增长幅度只有夹克与单裤销售额的一半。
负责哈洛德(Harrods)男装销售的主管詹森-布罗德里克(Jason Broderick)说，"我们的单裤销售同比增长了22%，而领带销售则同比下降了40%。这就清楚地表明了现在男士喜欢穿非正式的亮装，而正装现在通常只是作为晚礼服偶尔穿一下。当你光顾设计师的专卖店时，你所看到的全是西装外套和单裤，你得好好斟酌一下店家的推荐款式。"
按照杰尼亚集团的总裁吉尔多-杰尼亚(Gildo Zegna)的说法，推荐款式都是根据顾客的喜好做的。"2008年，我们推出了超休闲系列（售价从200英镑起），旨在满足男士们不断增长的需求，他们喜欢穿休闲一点的服饰，但又得像正装一样优雅大方，"他说。"如今这占了我们全球业务量的20%还多。"
http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001035913
The global economy was not the only thing to collapse two years ago. As banking institutions crumbled, so too did efforts to promote dress-down Fridays. Serious times demanded serious suits, and a generation who came of professional age in a world of open necks and chinos suddenly found themselves adrift in their closets without a sartorial anchor.
"Everything that has happened in formal men's wear since spring 2009 has been affected by the collapse of Lehman Brothers," says Robert Johnston, associate editor of British GQ. "Post-economic crisis, men who might not have been caring about their appearance came under pressure to wear suits. Many feel they can't do that, but simply can't go casual anymore."
Happily, there is now a third way: welcome to the age of the men's wear separate. Though the idea of a jacket in one style, skirt or trousers in another is not new to the female wardrobe, for many men, it's a liberating notion.
Cue a breed of young contemporary men's wear labels focused on a more independent way of dressing. Rake, a tailoring brand founded by former Kilgour tailor Clive Derby, focuses on the mix of men's suit jackets and trousers (prices from £675). "Flexibility is key," says Derby. "Every single piece is sold as a separate: break them up and they still stand up in their own right as an individual garment."
At London tailors Thom Sweeney, separates make up 40 per cent of the business (prices from £380), with the tailors Thom Whidett and Luke Sweeney setting the standard themselves. "It's hard to dress down and look good and it's also more complicated," says Whidett. "We started wearing navy blazers and grey flannel trousers ourselves," says Sweeney, "and our clients realised they can dress down in a bespoke way."
Windowpane check jackets teamed with plain narrow trousers (prices from £895) now typify their signature separates, which are "mostly check flannels, not tweeds, as they are lighter weight. An 'urban tweed' we call it, not stiff, hairy or heavy," says Whidett. "We often suggest a guy orders a navy and grey suit, and considers swapping the trousers for two additional looks."
Patrick Grant, director of the British tailoring brand E Tautz (prices from £595), says, "Separates are the uniform of the 'new financial industry' – the hedge fund and private equity areas which set themselves up very deliberately as non-suit-wearing institutions. Their wardrobe helps define who they are in business – 'We are not the old financial industry, we dress in a different way because we think about our products differently, too.'"
Take Jim Chanos, a New York businessman, who says, "Most of the time I'm in a suit but increasingly I'm in a jacket and trousers to travel. [I am] the principal of my company [and] I have to set a standard. However, as we are a money management firm, circumstances don't always lend themselves to a pure suit. The hedge fund world is more casual than banking."
Similarly, an investment banker who prefers separates to suits, notes: "I don't want to look too starchy, especially in internal meetings. Separates are ideal if I'm about to travel on a plane and then at the other end I go straight to a dinner at which I need to be reasonably smart."
According to Grant, a vogue for European styles such as those of Loro Piana and Cucinelli also plays a part in the rise of the separate. "With a proliferation of very high-end Italian brands comes an overwhelming push towards softness and unconstructed jackets in fabrics such as cashmere, which are just inappropriate for making trousers." Grant says that customers are building "libraries" of separates that can be mixed with other elements.
British department stores have seen a similar evolution in their men's wear sales. Selfridges formal wear department reports a 48 per cent rise in formal jacket sales and a 27 per cent lift in units of trousers (year on year from 2009 to 2010) compared with a suiting increase of half that amount.
Jason Broderick, head of men's wear at Harrods, says, "Our trouser business is up 22 per cent, while ties sales depreciated 40 per cent [also year on year, 2009-10]. This says a lot about how men are wearing smart clothes in a less formal way, the suit often being left to evening wear now. When you go into a designer's showroom to buy and all you see is jackets and trousers, you have to reflect the offering."
And the offering, according to Zegna chief executive Gildo Zegna, is dictated by the customer. "Our 'upper casual' collection [prices from £200], which launched in 2008 was conceived to meet the emerging needs of men who want a less formal look that is as elegant as a suit," he says. "It now accounts for more than 20 per cent of our global business."
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