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•乔治•冯格里奇顿（Jean-Georges Vongerichten）也爱吃以辣著称的川菜。
Harry Harrison
冯格里奇顿说，我用的最多的、也是我生活中不能没有的东西就是各种各样的辣椒；即便是在家，我也会用墨西哥辣椒、南美辣椒、亚洲辣椒、尖椒、泡椒──辣椒就是我的增鲜剂。你一旦吃上了辣椒，就会一发不可收拾了。
冯格里奇顿在上海也有一家餐厅，叫Jean-Georges Shanghai。那么他在上海时都吃些什么呢？他向我们介绍了他最锺爱的五种食物。
煎饼：我很喜欢这里的早餐。他们做的那种煎饼，放上点辣椒酱和葱花，然后再加上脆脆的一种东西。豫园后面有一条很棒的小吃街，那是老城最后的一条小吃街，那里的煎饼会折成好几折，又大又脆。还有一种我最喜欢的早餐是脆脆的油条。新鲜豆浆、油条和小笼包，对我来说，就是在这里的完美早餐。
生煎包：我喜欢脆脆的生煎包，里面有汤，煎过的表皮看起来很精致，很有上海风味。基本上什么东西都能往生煎包里放。我吃过大闸蟹馅的生煎包，味道很棒、很浓郁。我们在纽约包过鹅肝，鸡肉和鹅肝，鹅肝里的脂肪溶解出来，真是太美味了。
炸酱面：上海有一种特色面条，几乎全部是黑色的。酱料十分粘稠，其中有一些肉末。没有汤汁。将黑胡椒、豆豉、甜面酱和老抽混合做出来的酱料稍带甜味，蒜味很浓，但做起来很简单。小贩推着自行车，在后座的一口锅上做这种面。我们在纽约也尝试做了这种面。
咖喱面条：我在这里吃过最让人意外的东西是在离我们餐厅六个街区的一条街上，他们卖的一种咖喱面。我不禁在想，“咖喱是怎么来到这里的？”上世纪二三十年代，上海所有的警察都来自印度，他们带来了印度的香料，所以人们就发明了咖喱面，他们把面团放在肩上，把面条削进淡淡的咖喱汤中。
四川辣子鸡（配青岛啤酒）：我最喜欢的是川菜，因为我喜欢吃辣。我喜欢火锅，我也喜欢他们把香脆的鸡块埋在那些花椒和红椒底下。纽约中国城的那些餐厅什么菜都做，所以有川菜，但只有几道菜。在那里你找不到辣子鸡。我喜欢就着青岛啤酒享用美食。半只辣子鸡加半瓶青岛啤酒，真是绝配。
Sophie Friedman
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
Spicy Sichuan food has a friend in Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
The chef, whose restaurants include Mercer Kitchen, Spice Market and JoJo, whips out containers of red and green chili puree and passes spoonfuls around the table.
“The thing I use the most, what I can’t live without, is all kinds of chilies. Even at home, I use jalapenos, South American chilies, Asian chilies, finger chilies, pickled chilies ─ chilies are my MSG,” Mr. Vongerichten says. “When you eat spices, there’s no way back.”
When in Shanghai, where he also has a restaurant (Jean-Georges Shanghai), what does Mr. Vongerichten eat? He shares his top five picks.
Jian Bing: “I like the breakfast here a lot. That crepe they do (jian bing), with a little bit of chili paste and scallions and then something crunchy in there. There’s an amazing street right behind Yu Gardens, the last street in the Old City, that does them big, folded and crispy. Another one of my favorite breakfasts is the crispy donut (you tiao). You get the fresh soymilk, the you tiao, and the xiao long bao. For me that’s the complete breakfast, right there.”
Xiao Long Bao: “I like the crispy ones ─ soupy inside, but nice and fried. It’s very Shanghainese. Basically you can put anything in xiao long bao. I’ve had xiao long bao with hairy crab ─ amazing, rich. We did one with foie gras in New York, chicken and foie gras, and when the fat melts from the foie, mmm.”
Ge Gen Mian: “There’s a Shanghainese noodle specialty that’s almost black. The sauce is very goopy, with a little bit of pork diced in it. There’s no broth. It’s black pepper, black bean, sweet soy, dark soy, in a sweet stew ─ very garlicky, but simple. The guy was doing it out of his bicycle with a wok on the back. We tried to repeat it in New York.”
Ga Li Mian Tiao: “The most surprising dish I ever had here was six blocks from the restaurant, on a street where they sell a lot of noodles in curry broth (ga li mian tiao). I was saying to myself, ‘How did curry come to this town?’ In the ’20s and ’30s all the policemen were from India, and they brought their spices with them, so they do these noodles that they put on their shoulder and then slice up in a very light curry broth.”
Sichuan Chicken (with Tsingtao): “My favorite is Sichuan, because I like spicy. I like hot pot, and I love when they bury the crispy chicken in all those peppers and red chilies. All those restaurants in New York Chinatown, they’re mixing everything up a little bit, so there’s Sichuan cuisine, but it’s only a few dishes. You don’t find that chicken buried in chilies. I like Tsingtao to go along with my food. I would say half a chicken, half a bottle of Tsingtao. It helps.”
Sophie Friedman
The chef, whose restaurants include Mercer Kitchen, Spice Market and JoJo, whips out containers of red and green chili puree and passes spoonfuls around the table.
“The thing I use the most, what I can’t live without, is all kinds of chilies. Even at home, I use jalapenos, South American chilies, Asian chilies, finger chilies, pickled chilies ─ chilies are my MSG,” Mr. Vongerichten says. “When you eat spices, there’s no way back.”
When in Shanghai, where he also has a restaurant (Jean-Georges Shanghai), what does Mr. Vongerichten eat? He shares his top five picks.
Jian Bing: “I like the breakfast here a lot. That crepe they do (jian bing), with a little bit of chili paste and scallions and then something crunchy in there. There’s an amazing street right behind Yu Gardens, the last street in the Old City, that does them big, folded and crispy. Another one of my favorite breakfasts is the crispy donut (you tiao). You get the fresh soymilk, the you tiao, and the xiao long bao. For me that’s the complete breakfast, right there.”
Xiao Long Bao: “I like the crispy ones ─ soupy inside, but nice and fried. It’s very Shanghainese. Basically you can put anything in xiao long bao. I’ve had xiao long bao with hairy crab ─ amazing, rich. We did one with foie gras in New York, chicken and foie gras, and when the fat melts from the foie, mmm.”
Ge Gen Mian: “There’s a Shanghainese noodle specialty that’s almost black. The sauce is very goopy, with a little bit of pork diced in it. There’s no broth. It’s black pepper, black bean, sweet soy, dark soy, in a sweet stew ─ very garlicky, but simple. The guy was doing it out of his bicycle with a wok on the back. We tried to repeat it in New York.”
Ga Li Mian Tiao: “The most surprising dish I ever had here was six blocks from the restaurant, on a street where they sell a lot of noodles in curry broth (ga li mian tiao). I was saying to myself, ‘How did curry come to this town?’ In the ’20s and ’30s all the policemen were from India, and they brought their spices with them, so they do these noodles that they put on their shoulder and then slice up in a very light curry broth.”
Sichuan Chicken (with Tsingtao): “My favorite is Sichuan, because I like spicy. I like hot pot, and I love when they bury the crispy chicken in all those peppers and red chilies. All those restaurants in New York Chinatown, they’re mixing everything up a little bit, so there’s Sichuan cuisine, but it’s only a few dishes. You don’t find that chicken buried in chilies. I like Tsingtao to go along with my food. I would say half a chicken, half a bottle of Tsingtao. It helps.”
Sophie Friedman
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