若你认为皮草只专属于女士，那就大错特错了。大卫•海耶斯(David Hayes)写道：男装亦渐步皮草风格。银狐、貂皮、栗鼠、浣熊及野兔（应有尽有）的皮草系列已粉墨登场2010秋冬季的男装秀场。
Zilli （网址：www.zilli.fr）英国分公司总经理阿诺德•科尔班(Arnaud Corbin)说："皮草的知名度与日俱增——甚至在着装较为传统的群体中，比如说商界人士。" Zilli为高档男装公司，大量销售高级皮装。科尔班销售的皮草款式就包括了Layon外套，这是一款带可卸式貂皮领的传统山羊绒大衣（售价4300英镑）。"这款外套在伦敦店已有两次被一抢而空，"科尔班说。
但在许多时装设计师看来，皮草主要是起"俏一把"的作用而非稳靠的卖点。在2010年秋冬时装节上，男装设计师汤姆•布朗（Thom Browne，网址：www.thombrowne.com）在其推出的几乎每一款服装（包括领带、T恤以及裤子）上都清一色地缀了把浣熊尾巴毛，他坦承："我实际上不太使用皮草，很大程度上是基于我对这个秋冬季服装风格的理解。"
皮草品牌莱维安(Revillon)前创意总监、设计师瑞克•欧文斯 （Rick Owens，网址：www.rickowens.eu）则说，"我认为男士皮草装并不一定会给每人带来巨大赢利。我所设计的男装系列使用皮草主要是因为自己有家皮草工作室，而且我喜欢男士穿上皮草后所呈现的那一点离经叛道的味道。在我看来，皮草完全是起"俏一把"的点缀作用。"
"男士着全皮草衣服可不是件容易的事，" 以设计皮革及皮草服饰著称的伦敦设计师托德•林恩（Todd Lynn，网址：www.toddlynn.com ）说。"我喜欢T型台上模特们穿上皮草后的样子，但在现实生活中，穿皮草得是合适的人才行。（不合适的人穿后），看上去反而像皮条客和里波拉齐（Liberace，美国表演家、钢琴家，舞台造型华丽夸张——译者注）。而且这两种形象都并非男士所真正心仪。"
皮草还仍是牵扯公众是非情结的话题，它在设计师与零售商的关系上"挑拨离间"。如夏菲尼高(Harvey Nichols) 和塞尔福里奇百货公司(Selfridges)就不进皮草货，美国时装品牌拉夫•劳伦(Ralph Lauren)、卡尔文•克莱恩(Calvin Klein)以及汤米•希尔菲杰公司(Tommy Hilfiger)也拒绝使用皮草。真正与之"沆瀣一气"的百货店与品牌店则成为公众口诛笔伐的抨击对象。
世家皮草(Saga Furs)总经理严凯坤先生(Jan Erik Carlson)说，"男士皮草一直属于'强行式销售'，光把皮草货品卖给女士，又显得销售商没能耐。但是，许多男装设计师一直与我们接洽，许多情况下，我们帮助他们销售皮草系列完全是出于赞助目的。"
（译者：常和）
http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001035617
If you thought fur was the dominion of women only, you thought wrong. Something savage is stalking men's wear, too, writes David Hayes. Silver fox, mink, chinchilla, raccoon, rabbit – you name it, it made an appearance at the autumn/winter 2010 men's collections.
According to Arnaud Corbin, UK managing director of luxury men's wear company Zilli (www.zilli.fr), which sells large quantities of high-grade fur: "The popularity of fur is growing – even among more traditional dressers, such as businessmen." His pieces include the Layon coat, a traditional cashmere overcoat with a removable mink collar (£4,300). "The supplies of this coat in the London store have already sold out twice," says Corbin.
For many catwalk designers, however, fur is predominantly a flamboyant gesture rather than safe seller. Men's wear designer Thom Browne (www.thombrowne.com), who attached fistfulls of racoon tails to almost everything in his autumn/winter 2010 catwalk show, including scarves, T-shirts and trousers, admits: "I actually don't use fur very much. It is very much based on the concept I had for this season."
As for designer Rick Owens (www.rickowens.eu), former creative director of fur house Revillon, "I don't think fur for men is ever going to make anyone a lot of money. I use it in my men's collections because I have a fur atelier, and I like the slight element of transgression in putting a man in fur. I definitely see it as a flamboyant gesture."
"It's not easy for men to wear full fur pieces," says London designer Todd Lynn (www.toddlynn.com), famed for his leather and fur clothing. "I love the look of fur on the catwalk, but you have to be the right type of person to carry it off in real life. The wearer can look like a pimp – or Liberace. Neither is something that men really aspire to."
Fur also remains an emotive issue, alienating both designers and retailers. Department stores Harvey Nichols and Selfridges, for instance, don't stock it, and US fashion brands Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger all refuse to work with it. Stores and brands that do can become the target of protests.
Jan Erik Carlson, chief executive of Saga Furs, says, "Fur for men has always been a 'hard sell'. It has been a great frustration that we have a product that is sold mainly to women. But many men's wear designers have been in contact with us, and, in some cases, we have facilitated the pelts for their collections as sponsorship."
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