问
：标准的男士无尾礼服有没有什么中规中矩的替代品呢？两件套或者三件套的黑西装够得上标准吗？眼下的社交日历上排满了各式各样的假日派对，其中许多都要求宾客穿着无尾礼服（black-tie）。在这种情况之下，穿什么才合适呢？
看名人是如何穿着他们的无尾礼服。
如今，要求你如此着装的派对已经非常之少，即便有也不会苛刻到那种地步。不过，为了不让自己和别人尴尬，你最好还是不要去破坏规矩。
登喜路公司（Alfred Dunhill）的定做业务主管克劳森（Karl Clausen）说，“你应该选择那些久经考验的经典礼服。不到万不得已的时候，不要拿一套简简单单的黑西装去敷衍场合。”
以下是一些相关的注意事项：
时至今日，千变万化的时尚依然没有把男士的无尾礼服赶下舞台。碰到上述的正式场合，传统的无尾礼服依然是你惟一的得体选择，除非你是个苏格兰人，而且还拥有一条苏格兰短裙。
说到礼服的颜色，你应该始终选择黑色。深蓝色也可以过关，白色则是侍应生和亨弗莱•鲍嘉（Humphrey Bogart）的选择。
全套的无尾礼服应该包括以下两个基本要件：一件单排单纽、带有“戗驳头”翻领的黑色上装（普通西服的翻领尖端指向下方，礼服翻领的尖端则应该指向上方），以及一条外侧裤缝滚有丝带或是花边的裤子。
衬衫的材质应该是白色的凸纹棉布，它要比一般的衬衫面料挺括一些。此外，衬衫的前襟应该带有褶皱装饰。
选择衬衫的时候，你还应该注意：双层袖口是一个必须具备的条件，领型则可以是普通的折叠领，也可以是领尖下折的翼领。不过，坚守传统的人士一般都会选择折叠领。
穿礼服的时候最好是打上领结，而你也应该学会打领结的方法。你已经是个成年人了，眼下可不是去参加什么中学生的舞会。
按照规矩，你还应该系上腹带──也就是怪模怪样的腰封，同时要保证腰封上的褶缝朝着上方。
鞋子：黑漆皮的牛津鞋是经典的选择，擦得亮闪闪的普通牛津鞋也算是中规中矩。
克劳森说，穿着无尾礼服的时候，你可以根据自己的个人品味来选择领型。青果领（shawl collar）──这种领的线条比较圆浑，跟休•赫夫纳（Hugh Hefner）穿的那种晚便服有点儿像──也算得体，只不过不那么正式。
选购无尾礼服的时候，你一定得记住，礼服的尺码应该和商务套装的尺码略有不同。克劳森说，“按照传统习惯，晚礼服应该比普通套装紧身一点儿。”
穿礼服的规矩如此严苛，还有没有什么别的东西能让你展现自己的个人风格呢？有的，那就是你的方巾、你的袖扣、你的手表（手表应该跟袖扣形成搭配）以及你优雅得体的举止。再搞什么其他花样的话，你就是在跟150年来的裁缝传统过不去了。
Jason Chow
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
http://www.cn.wsj.com/gb/20101201/sfs083042.asp?source=channel
A: The words 'black tie' on a party invite denote that the event is the most formal of functions. You may well yawn at the stuffiness, but back in the late 19th century, the wealthy elite used to change into a dinner jacket for practically every evening meal.
Now, the rare instance you're asked to do the same hardly seems like such a drag. To save you and everybody else from embarrassment, don't bend the rules.
'Stay with the tried and true,' says Karl Clausen, head of bespoke at Alfred Dunhill. 'One should only wear a plain black suit as a last resort.'
Here's what you need to know:
The vagaries of fashion have not dislodged the dinner jacket from its perch. Unless you're Scottish and own a kilt, the traditional dinner jacket ' sounds better than 'tux,' doesn't it? ' remains the only acceptable clothing.
As for the color of your ensemble, stick to black. Navy is acceptable; white is for waiters and Humphrey Bogart.
Your black-tie attire should consist of the following foundational components: a black, single-button, single-breasted jacket with a peak lapel (the points of the lapel point should point upward, whereas they point down on a regular suit) and trousers that have a silk stripe or braiding running along the outside seam of the leg.
Your shirt should be of white marcella, a cotton that is starchier than that used in regular shirts, with a bib front.
Other shirt details to watch: French cuffs are a must, and a regular fold-down collar, as opposed to the smaller-flapped winged collar, is the purist's choice.
The bowtie is the recommended choice ' and learn to tie it. You're not going to the prom, you're an adult now.
A cummerbund 'the fancy waistband ' is also de rigueur, and make sure the pleats facing upward.
The shoes: Patent-leather Oxfords are the classic, but a pair of well-polished regular Oxfords could do just as well.
Mr. Clausen says that the one part of the dinner-jacket uniform that is up to personal taste is the collar. A shawl collar ' a more rounded shape that looks a bit like Hugh Hefner's smoking jacket ' is acceptable, but less formal.
When shopping for a tux, remember that the fit is slightly different than your business suit. 'Dinner suits are traditionally worn closer to the body,' Mr. Clausen says.
How else can you express your personal style in such a rigid uniform? Your pocket square, cuff links, watch (which should match your cuff links) and good manners. Anything else and you'd just be flouting 150 years of sartorial tradition.
Jason Chow
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