跟
其它一次性消费品相比，葡萄酒的规矩大概是最多的了，这些规矩极其复杂，常常会令人莫知适从。到目前为止，读者对我写的专栏最关注的是一篇讲我们把葡萄酒弄得温度过低的文章。我承认，在炎炎夏日，一杯冰镇过的白葡萄酒是消夏解暑的上品：但我发现在很多情况下，葡萄酒的温度过低，反而淡化了酒的芳香，直接影响口感。相关报导
就个人而言，我在喝葡萄酒的时候，喜欢让其维持在窖藏温度。也就是说，对于窖藏温度在10到18摄氏度之间的红酒，如果是口感厚重的红酒，如澳洲莎瑞斯(Australian Shiraz)，上酒时的温度要处于这个温度区间的高位：对于清淡的红酒，如薄若莱酒(Beaujolais)，温度则应处于低位。白葡萄酒的适宜温度在4到10摄氏度之间，不过，正如我先前所说，我个人偏好高位的温度。香槟的上酒温度则是低一点更佳，因为这样才能更好地突出香槟清爽怡神的口感。现在有一种红酒冷饮的趋势，但我只建议在喝清淡型红酒时这么做，比如说薄若莱或卢瓦河谷(Loire)的希侬(Chinon)红酒等，而即便如此，这些酒的饮用温度也应当比其窖藏温度高一些。不过，最好是把葡萄酒放到冰箱里快速冷冻一下，而不是直接放在冰桶里。
让很多葡萄酒爱好者摸不着头脑的还有一点，就是葡萄酒怎么跟食物搭配的问题。传统的规则说，白葡萄酒配海鲜，红葡萄酒配红肉。当然，任何规则看上去都有点陈词滥调的意思，但通常而言，白葡萄酒更配海鲜这是毋庸置疑的事实。不过，还有一个更实用的基本原则，就是不要考虑葡萄酒的颜色，而是考虑葡萄酒的酒体(body)和质地(texture)。用浅显的非技术语言来讲，白葡萄酒通常有一定的酸度，与柠檬和醋等酸味食品搭配得更好，还能让富含乳脂的酱汁吃起来更可口，因此勃艮第(Burgundy)白葡萄酒与多宝鱼这类海鲜很搭。味道偏清淡的海鲜适合与苏瓦韦(Soave)、灰皮诺(Pinot Grigio)或卢瓦河谷的慕思卡黛(Muscadet)葡萄酒搭配，而沙丁鱼这类油脂较多的海鲜则需要一款口感绵厚、橡木味重一些的霞多丽(Chardonnay)。霞多丽同样适合烟熏三文鱼，但你也可以尝试产自勃艮第区最北部的口感更清新的梅肯红葡萄酒(Mâcon)或夏布利白葡萄酒(Chablis)。不过，薄若莱、卢瓦河谷希侬等口感绵软的红酒，或者清淡果味的黑皮诺(Pinot Noirs)，往往能很好地搭配肉质粗厚一点的鱼肉，如剑鱼或金枪鱼扒等。
我喜欢用红酒配西班牙什锦饭，无论里头有没有海鲜；还喜欢用菲诺干型雪莉酒(fino sherry)配鲭鱼，用一款精品香槟配生蚝。不过，为什么白葡萄酒一定要限于配海鲜呢口难道就不能配肉类或蔬菜吗口还有那道晚宴上必不可少的经典菜肴──奶酪拼盘(cheese board)？
现在，让我们再来考虑一下葡萄酒的口感。一款丹宁丰富的干红往往带有一丝苦涩的余味，让味蕾发干，而经得起咀嚼的大肉能够中和这种感觉。通常我喜欢用波尔多红酒(Bordeaux)或教皇新古堡红酒(Châteauneuf-du-Pape)来搭配牛肉，退而求其次的话，可以用智利的西拉干红(Syrah)：西班牙的里奥哈红酒(Rioja)配羊肉很好：禽肉或野味与勃艮第红酒和黑皮诺可谓天作之合，顶级博若莱(Cru Beaujolais)配起来也不错。
在夏日时光，我倾向于用玫瑰红葡萄酒(rosé)配蔬菜类的菜肴，尤其是普罗旺斯(Provence)产区的一种干型玫瑰红。在冬天，一款柔和、成熟、绵密、丹宁较低的红酒是最佳的选择，如加州的梅洛(Merlot)或阿根廷的马尔贝克(Malbec)等。
用葡萄酒来配奶酪可能会遇到各种意想不到的问题，因为奶酪会有一些特殊味道跟红酒中的丹宁味格格不入。成熟的高德干酪(gouda)，切达干酪(cheddar)和米摩雷特奶酪(mimolette)跟波尔多红酒很配：另外，虽然有些老生常谈，但波特葡萄酒(port)与斯提耳顿干酪(stilton)的确堪称绝配。在很多情况下，我喜欢在吃洛克福蓝纹乳酪(Roquefort )的时候，喝上一口苏特恩(Sauternes)这样的白葡萄甜酒，真是回味无穷。
如果你拿不定主意用什么奶酪来配葡萄酒，我强烈推荐孔泰奶酪(Comté)。它是一款百搭型的奶酪，那种果仁焦糖味与卢瓦河谷的桑榭尔(Sancerre)这样的白葡萄酒、清淡的薄若莱红酒、年份香槟甚至产自法国朗格多克-鲁西永(Languedoc-Roussillon)地区的绵厚红酒都很相配。事实上，可以说这款奶酪无酒不搭，彻底打破了所有的红酒配搭规则。
Will Lyons
让很多葡萄酒爱好者摸不着头脑的还有一点，就是葡萄酒怎么跟食物搭配的问题。传统的规则说，白葡萄酒配海鲜，红葡萄酒配红肉。当然，任何规则看上去都有点陈词滥调的意思，但通常而言，白葡萄酒更配海鲜这是毋庸置疑的事实。不过，还有一个更实用的基本原则，就是不要考虑葡萄酒的颜色，而是考虑葡萄酒的酒体(body)和质地(texture)。用浅显的非技术语言来讲，白葡萄酒通常有一定的酸度，与柠檬和醋等酸味食品搭配得更好，还能让富含乳脂的酱汁吃起来更可口，因此勃艮第(Burgundy)白葡萄酒与多宝鱼这类海鲜很搭。味道偏清淡的海鲜适合与苏瓦韦(Soave)、灰皮诺(Pinot Grigio)或卢瓦河谷的慕思卡黛(Muscadet)葡萄酒搭配，而沙丁鱼这类油脂较多的海鲜则需要一款口感绵厚、橡木味重一些的霞多丽(Chardonnay)。霞多丽同样适合烟熏三文鱼，但你也可以尝试产自勃艮第区最北部的口感更清新的梅肯红葡萄酒(Mâcon)或夏布利白葡萄酒(Chablis)。不过，薄若莱、卢瓦河谷希侬等口感绵软的红酒，或者清淡果味的黑皮诺(Pinot Noirs)，往往能很好地搭配肉质粗厚一点的鱼肉，如剑鱼或金枪鱼扒等。
我喜欢用红酒配西班牙什锦饭，无论里头有没有海鲜；还喜欢用菲诺干型雪莉酒(fino sherry)配鲭鱼，用一款精品香槟配生蚝。不过，为什么白葡萄酒一定要限于配海鲜呢口难道就不能配肉类或蔬菜吗口还有那道晚宴上必不可少的经典菜肴──奶酪拼盘(cheese board)？
现在，让我们再来考虑一下葡萄酒的口感。一款丹宁丰富的干红往往带有一丝苦涩的余味，让味蕾发干，而经得起咀嚼的大肉能够中和这种感觉。通常我喜欢用波尔多红酒(Bordeaux)或教皇新古堡红酒(Châteauneuf-du-Pape)来搭配牛肉，退而求其次的话，可以用智利的西拉干红(Syrah)：西班牙的里奥哈红酒(Rioja)配羊肉很好：禽肉或野味与勃艮第红酒和黑皮诺可谓天作之合，顶级博若莱(Cru Beaujolais)配起来也不错。
在夏日时光，我倾向于用玫瑰红葡萄酒(rosé)配蔬菜类的菜肴，尤其是普罗旺斯(Provence)产区的一种干型玫瑰红。在冬天，一款柔和、成熟、绵密、丹宁较低的红酒是最佳的选择，如加州的梅洛(Merlot)或阿根廷的马尔贝克(Malbec)等。
用葡萄酒来配奶酪可能会遇到各种意想不到的问题，因为奶酪会有一些特殊味道跟红酒中的丹宁味格格不入。成熟的高德干酪(gouda)，切达干酪(cheddar)和米摩雷特奶酪(mimolette)跟波尔多红酒很配：另外，虽然有些老生常谈，但波特葡萄酒(port)与斯提耳顿干酪(stilton)的确堪称绝配。在很多情况下，我喜欢在吃洛克福蓝纹乳酪(Roquefort )的时候，喝上一口苏特恩(Sauternes)这样的白葡萄甜酒，真是回味无穷。
如果你拿不定主意用什么奶酪来配葡萄酒，我强烈推荐孔泰奶酪(Comté)。它是一款百搭型的奶酪，那种果仁焦糖味与卢瓦河谷的桑榭尔(Sancerre)这样的白葡萄酒、清淡的薄若莱红酒、年份香槟甚至产自法国朗格多克-鲁西永(Languedoc-Roussillon)地区的绵厚红酒都很相配。事实上，可以说这款奶酪无酒不搭，彻底打破了所有的红酒配搭规则。
Will Lyons
Personally, I prefer to drink my wine at cellar temperature. That is, if it is a red wine between 10 degrees Celsius and 18 degrees Celsius, with heavier reds, such as Australian Shiraz, served toward the higher end of the temperature range and lighter reds, such as Beaujolais, served at the lower end. White wine can be served between four degrees Celsius and 10 degrees Celsius, although, as I said, I prefer mine on the warmer side. Champagne often benefits from being served a little cooler as it accentuates its crisp, refreshing character. There is a trend toward chilling red wines. I would only really advocate this if they are lighter reds, again probably a Beaujolais or a Chinon from the Loire, and their temperature has exceeded that of the cellar. But they really need a quick burst in the fridge, as opposed to an ice bucket.
One area where a lot of us get into an awful muddle is with food, in particular, the old rule that dictates white wine with fish, red wine with meat. Of course, all rules are a little bit of a cliché but generally it cannot be denied that white wine more often than not pairs best with fish. But a good rule of thumb is to think not of the color of the wine, but of its body and texture. Without getting too involved in the technicalities, white wine usually has a fair amount of acidity that works well with tart flavors such as lemon and vinegar. It also cuts through creamy sauces so it makes sense to pair a white Burgundy with a dish such as turbot. Lighter flavored seafood pairs well with Soave,Pinot Grigio or Muscadet from the Loire Valley, while oilier fish such as sardines may need a heavy, oaked Chardonnay. This can also work well with smoked salmon or you may prefer something a little fresher from farther north in Burgundy such as a Mâcon or Chablis. But delicate red wines such as Beaujolais, Chinon from the Loire or light, fruity Pinot Noirs can often match very well with tougher fish such as swordfish or tuna steaks.
I prefer red wine with paella, whether it has fish or not. I also like a dry fino sherry with mackerel and for a very special treat champagne with oysters. But why limit the rule to just fish? What about meat or vegetables? And of course that perennial dinner party course-the cheese board?
Again, it's best to think of how the wine leaves your mouth feeling. A dry, tannic red wine often leaves one's mouth bitter and the tastebuds dry. Heavy meat with a chewy texture can soften that sensation. As a rule of thumb, I prefer to serve red Bordeaux or Châteauneuf-du-Pape with beef, second choice would be a Chilean Syrah. With lamb, generally Rioja. Any sort of poultry or game goes very well with red Burgundy and Pinot Noir. Cru Beaujolais is also a good match.
In the summer months, I would not hesitate to match vegetable dishes with rosé wine, preferably a dry example from Provence. In the winter, a soft, ripe, smooth red wine low in tannin is the order of the day such as Californian Merlot or Argentinean Malbec.
Matching wine with cheese can pose all sorts of pitfalls as certain flavors associated with cheese can react badly with the tannin in red wine. Aged gouda, cheddar and mimolette cheese go very well with red Bordeaux. It may be a cliché but port and stilton work very well together. But in many cases, I prefer to serve a sweet white wine such as Sauternes, which goes superbly with Roquefort cheese.
If you are in any way unsure pairing cheese with wine, I would strongly recommend just opting for Comté. It's hugely versatile and its nutty, caramelized flavor matches superbly with white wines from the Loire such as Sancerre, light red Beaujolais, vintage Champagne and even heavy reds from the Languedoc-Roussillon. In fact, you could say it breaks all the rulebooks.
Will Lyons
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