Reuters
意大利面
如
果你打算说服两位来自纽约的意大利大厨，让他们相信意大利面是马可•波罗从中国带回去的，会有怎样的结果呢？呃，他们不会相信你的。
Lam Thuy Vo/The Wall Street Journal
西泽•卡瑟拉在香港品尝意大利面。
不过，这两位大厨承认，中国菜和意大利菜的确有一些相似之处。
Salumeria Rosi餐馆东家、国际烹饪学校（International Culinary Institute）意大利分院院长卡瑟拉说，多年以来，我一直都想在纽约开一家中意合璧的餐馆。中餐和意大利餐都讲究原材料，也都可以做出家常风味，在一些比较轻松的场合享用。我以前这么问过自己：干嘛不能用橄榄油来炒菜呢？又干嘛不能用炒菜锅来做意大利面呢？
Del Posto餐馆（该餐馆刚刚得到了《纽约时报》的四星级评分，这可是一份少有的殊荣）大厨拉德纳也看到了中餐和意大利餐的共通之处。他喜欢吃“地道的”中国美食，而拒绝他所说的那种“美国化的快餐版中国菜”。
他说，有些粤菜（比如蒜蓉西兰花）必须做得既简单又精细，同样的要求也是意大利烹饪的要义。
Lam Thuy Vo/The Wall Street Journal
马克•拉德纳在香港品尝意大利面。
香港的各家意大利餐馆每天都会收到从意大利运来的新鲜食材。卡瑟拉说，香港餐馆烹制的许多意大利菜甚至比纽约的餐馆还要好。
拉德纳说，香港餐馆的味道虽然正宗，进口原材料在菜肴当中所占的比例却高得令人吃惊，有些餐馆的比例甚至超过了90%，这样的局面也会产生一些副作用。
他解释说，真正的意大利烹饪注重就地取材。当然，你可能必须得从意大利进口帕尔马干酪，可是，香港本地的蔬菜质量非常好，品种也非常多，干嘛非得用外地的呢？
话虽这么说，烹制正宗意大利菜肴的时候，我们真的可以用中国产的小白菜来取代西兰花吗？
Amy Ma
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
What happens when you try to convince two Italian chefs from New York that spaghetti came from China via Marco Polo?
Well, they won't believe you.
At least, that's how it turned out with Mark Ladner and Cesare Casella, in Hong Kong last week for the 2010 Italian Cuisine World Summit, which was hosted by 15 Italian restaurants in Hong Kong, Macau and Shenzhen.
The chefs admit, however, that the two cuisines share similarities.
'For years, I've wanted to do an Italian-Chinese restaurant in New York,' says Mr. Casella, owner of Salumeria Rosi and dean of Italian Studies at the International Culinary Institute. 'They are both ingredient-focused cuisines that can be served family-style in somewhat casual settings. I asked myself: Why can't you do a stir-fry dish with olive oil? And why not make pasta in a wok?'
Mr. Ladner, chef of Del Posto (which just won a rare four-star review from The New York Times), likewise spots the parallels now that he's had a taste of 'real' Chinese food, and not what he calls 'Americanized, fast-food versions.'
'The simplicity, but also refinement of some of the Cantonese dishes [a simple garlic-steamed broccoli, for example] is an essential part of Italian cooking as well,' he says.
The shared traits could explain why Italian food is a popular Western cuisine in the city. The WOM guide online lists 153 Italian restaurants─compared with 85 French restaurants. And more big-name Italian restaurants are coming: New York-based chef Michael White, who heads up the well-regarded restaurants Marea, Convivio and Alto, recently confirmed he will be setting up his first Hong Kong spot in Harbour City next year.
Hong Kong Italian restaurants also receive daily shipments of fresh ingredients from Italy. 'Many of the Italian products in Hong Kong are better than you could find even in New York,' says Mr. Casella.
But for all the authenticity it delivers, the staggering proportion of imported ingredients used in Hong Kong restaurants─for some, more than 90% has a bad side too, says Mr. Ladner.
'True Italian cooking stresses that local ingredients be used,' he explains. 'Sure, Parmesan may need to come from Italy, but the vegetables in Hong Kong are just good, and there are such a wide variety of them of them out here. So why not use those instead?'
When cooking authentic Italian cuisine, though, can Chinese bok choy replace broccoli?
Amy Ma
Well, they won't believe you.
At least, that's how it turned out with Mark Ladner and Cesare Casella, in Hong Kong last week for the 2010 Italian Cuisine World Summit, which was hosted by 15 Italian restaurants in Hong Kong, Macau and Shenzhen.
The chefs admit, however, that the two cuisines share similarities.
'For years, I've wanted to do an Italian-Chinese restaurant in New York,' says Mr. Casella, owner of Salumeria Rosi and dean of Italian Studies at the International Culinary Institute. 'They are both ingredient-focused cuisines that can be served family-style in somewhat casual settings. I asked myself: Why can't you do a stir-fry dish with olive oil? And why not make pasta in a wok?'
Mr. Ladner, chef of Del Posto (which just won a rare four-star review from The New York Times), likewise spots the parallels now that he's had a taste of 'real' Chinese food, and not what he calls 'Americanized, fast-food versions.'
'The simplicity, but also refinement of some of the Cantonese dishes [a simple garlic-steamed broccoli, for example] is an essential part of Italian cooking as well,' he says.
The shared traits could explain why Italian food is a popular Western cuisine in the city. The WOM guide online lists 153 Italian restaurants─compared with 85 French restaurants. And more big-name Italian restaurants are coming: New York-based chef Michael White, who heads up the well-regarded restaurants Marea, Convivio and Alto, recently confirmed he will be setting up his first Hong Kong spot in Harbour City next year.
Hong Kong Italian restaurants also receive daily shipments of fresh ingredients from Italy. 'Many of the Italian products in Hong Kong are better than you could find even in New York,' says Mr. Casella.
But for all the authenticity it delivers, the staggering proportion of imported ingredients used in Hong Kong restaurants─for some, more than 90% has a bad side too, says Mr. Ladner.
'True Italian cooking stresses that local ingredients be used,' he explains. 'Sure, Parmesan may need to come from Italy, but the vegetables in Hong Kong are just good, and there are such a wide variety of them of them out here. So why not use those instead?'
When cooking authentic Italian cuisine, though, can Chinese bok choy replace broccoli?
Amy Ma
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