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今年2月，在纽约时装周上，一名模特正在展示汤米•希尔费格的服装。
汤
米•希尔费格（Tommy Hilfiger）正在酝酿开发亚洲市场的大动作。这一以橄榄衫和宽松牛仔裤闻名的品牌希望将这个地区的销售额占全球的比例从现在的10%多一点点提升到三分之一。
8月，汤米•希尔费格收回了其产品在中国的销售权。之前，他们通过授权协议，授权经销商在中国销售其产品。7月底，他们将盖普集团亚太区（Gap Asia Pacific）总裁约翰•埃马廷格尔（John Ermatinger）挖了过来，担任新设立的汤米•希尔费格亚洲区执行长一职。
Tommy Hilfiger
汤米•希尔费格集团（Tommy Hilfiger Group）首席执行长弗雷德•格林（Fred Gehring）
《华尔街日报》：你们在亚洲有什么扩张计划？
格林：我们进入这个地区已经有一段时间了，但是一直采用的是传统的代理销售的方式。几年前，我们设法从经销商手中收回了日本市场的经销权，最近，又收回了在中国市场的经销权。从传统上看，授权经销商经销是（进入某个市场的）一种低风险、高效率的方法。
我们为这个地区所提供服务的区域化特点越来越明显。我认为，这很重要。我们不能再将欧洲和美国看作主要市场，将其他市场（如亚洲市场）看作是附属市场或二级市场。我们正在集中力量，针对亚洲提供更为高效、针对性更强的规划。我们将采取更为本地化的销售方式。
我们不会对品牌做任何改变。在欧洲，我们一直坚持这样做，结果很成功。针对欧洲的不同地区，我们只是因地制宜地做了一些细微的调整。
《华尔街日报》：你们针对中国市场有什么计划？
格林：原先我们一直通过迪生创建公司（Dickson Concepts）以授权经销的方式开发中国市场。迪生创建公司已经播下了种子。他们的工作做得非常好。他们获得我们的销售权已有将近15年的时间了。
我们从他们手中收回了经销权。从8月1日开始，我们接管了中国市场。我们在中国的发展很不错，只是力度略微欠缺。目前只有80个销售点。显然，这其中蕴藏着巨大的发展机遇。
我们认为，这个以年轻、休闲为核心理念的品牌非常适合中国市场。但是，要想在销量上有所突破，我们需要对思维方式进行结构性的调整。我们必须根据市场要求进行调整，而不是照搬过去在其他地方的经营方式。
《华尔街日报》：中国的独特之处在哪里？
格林：很多独特之处并不明显──属于细微的差别而非明显的差异。中国和世界其他主要市场相比没有什么大的不同之处。身处服装行业……你看到的不同之处只是气候的差异，以及人们身材的大小、身体的比例，为的是为顾客提供合身的衣服。
因为顾客越来越老练，所以一定要谨慎从事。在服装行业，（每个市场的）产品风格都要多少有点差别，要让产品具有某些独特和时尚感。公司必须具备专门的供应链。我们正在做这方面的组织和安排工作。
在中国市场，我们虽然有一定的品牌知名度，但是没有欧洲市场和美国市场那么高。我们在欧洲（的品牌认知度）是90%，但在中国，这个数字大约是60%。
我们在中国的经营模式，将以这些年来我们用于其他市场的经营模式为基础。我们打算不仅在最重要的一线城市开设自己的店铺，还要在二线城市设立大量的特许专卖店，做到遍地开花。
《华尔街日报》：你们在中国的品牌定位是什么？
格林：我们在全球范围内的定位是买得起的奢侈品牌。奢侈品的发展越来越热，目前这个市场有些拥挤。我们肯定要在中国开发这一市场──这个与其说是“奢侈品”市场而不如说是“优质品”市场。我们认为，我们的产品不属于“大众化”产品。（我们的产品）质量精良，虽然价格稍贵，但还没有达到奢侈品的水平，而且，我们的产品在奢侈品卖场和购物中心都可以买到。
《华尔街日报》：亚洲市场对汤米•希尔费格时装的反应和西方市场有什么区别吗？
格林：亚洲有很多不同之处。但是总体说来，我们将休闲这一核心理念诠释得很好。具体到产品，我们的休闲服装市场表现要好于量身定制的服装。
有人渴望也愿意自己的衣服上有一些色彩，希望略微前卫一点──亚洲人是这样，但其他市场就不一样了，比如说北欧。
Jason Chow
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
Tommy Hilfiger is setting itself up for a major move into Asia.
The brand, known for its rugby shirts and loose jeans, hopes it can grow its sales in the region to one-third of global revenue, up from just over 10% now.
In August, Hilfiger will be taking over the right to sell its own brand in China, where it was previously distributed through a licensing agreement. And it said today that it poached John Ermatinger, who until recently was the president of Gap Asia Pacific, for the newly appointed role of Asia Chief Executive for Tommy Hilfiger.
Fred Gehring, CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Group, spoke with Scene Asia about the firm's Asian strategy, its expansion plans in China and how the region's preferred color palette differs from Europe's. The following interview has been edited.
Wall Street Journal: What are your expansion plans in Asia?
Mr. Gehring: We've been in the region for quite some time, but in the traditional manner in the way of licensees. A few years ago, we tried to acquire our license back in Japan, and more recently in China. Licenses, traditionally, have been a low-risk and effective way [to enter a market].
The way we service this territory has to become more regionalized. I think that's the big difference. We no longer look at Europe and the U.S. as our main markets, and other markets [like Asia] as tag-on markets or secondary markets. We're grouping ourselves to become more efficient and planning specifically for Asia. We're taking a more localized approach.
We won't be changing the brand at all. We've been taking this approach in Europe very successfully. What we do in various regions in Europe is tweaked in each area.
WSJ: What is your plan for China?
Mr. Gehring: We have worked through Dickson Concepts and licensing. Dickson has planted the seed and done a very good job with it. They've had the license for almost 15 years.
We acquired the business back from them. On August 1, we're taking over in China. We have a very nice but modest presence. There are 80 points of sales. Clearly there is a great opportunity there.
We think our brand, with its youthful, casual DNA, is well-positioned for the Chinese market. But for substantial business, we need a structural change of thinking. We need to adapt to what the market requires instead of repeating what we've done elsewhere.
WSJ: What's unique about China?
Mr. Gehring: Many of the differences are small ─ nuances rather than gaping holes. China is not different than other major markets in the world. When you are in the apparel business…you view the differences related to climate, how big or small people are, the composition of their bodies so products fit.
As consumers get more sophisticated, you have to get it right. In the apparel business, you have to execute product slightly differently [for each market]. There needs to be uniqueness and freshness in offering. You need a dedicated supply chain. We're getting it properly organized and set up.
There is a brand awareness, but not as high as it is in Europe or the U.S. In the U.S., it's 90% [brand recognition]. In China, it's about 60%.
The model we've applied in other markets over the years will be the basis of how we'll go in China. We're not going to just open our own stores in A1 locations, but also a substantial number of franchise stores in tier-two cities as well. We want to be widely visible.
WSJ: What does your brand stand for in China?
Mr. Gehring: We are positioned around the world as an affordable luxury brand. There is a greater excitement over the development of luxury, and it's now a crowded environment. We're definitely taking this market to China, a more 'premium' one than luxury. I don't think the word 'mass' is right. [We offer a] very nice product, priced in the upper segment without being luxury, in both luxury environments and in shopping malls.
WSJ: How do Asian markets respond to Tommy Hilfiger fashion differently than those in Western markets?
Mr. Gehring: Asia has many differences among itself. But generally speaking, our casual DNA translates very well. When it comes to product, it's the casual product that does well, as opposed to the tailored ones.
There's a desire and willingness to show color and be a bit bold ─ which works well in Asia, as opposed to other markets in the world, like northern Europe.
Jason Chow
The brand, known for its rugby shirts and loose jeans, hopes it can grow its sales in the region to one-third of global revenue, up from just over 10% now.
In August, Hilfiger will be taking over the right to sell its own brand in China, where it was previously distributed through a licensing agreement. And it said today that it poached John Ermatinger, who until recently was the president of Gap Asia Pacific, for the newly appointed role of Asia Chief Executive for Tommy Hilfiger.
Fred Gehring, CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Group, spoke with Scene Asia about the firm's Asian strategy, its expansion plans in China and how the region's preferred color palette differs from Europe's. The following interview has been edited.
Wall Street Journal: What are your expansion plans in Asia?
Mr. Gehring: We've been in the region for quite some time, but in the traditional manner in the way of licensees. A few years ago, we tried to acquire our license back in Japan, and more recently in China. Licenses, traditionally, have been a low-risk and effective way [to enter a market].
The way we service this territory has to become more regionalized. I think that's the big difference. We no longer look at Europe and the U.S. as our main markets, and other markets [like Asia] as tag-on markets or secondary markets. We're grouping ourselves to become more efficient and planning specifically for Asia. We're taking a more localized approach.
We won't be changing the brand at all. We've been taking this approach in Europe very successfully. What we do in various regions in Europe is tweaked in each area.
WSJ: What is your plan for China?
Mr. Gehring: We have worked through Dickson Concepts and licensing. Dickson has planted the seed and done a very good job with it. They've had the license for almost 15 years.
We acquired the business back from them. On August 1, we're taking over in China. We have a very nice but modest presence. There are 80 points of sales. Clearly there is a great opportunity there.
We think our brand, with its youthful, casual DNA, is well-positioned for the Chinese market. But for substantial business, we need a structural change of thinking. We need to adapt to what the market requires instead of repeating what we've done elsewhere.
WSJ: What's unique about China?
Mr. Gehring: Many of the differences are small ─ nuances rather than gaping holes. China is not different than other major markets in the world. When you are in the apparel business…you view the differences related to climate, how big or small people are, the composition of their bodies so products fit.
As consumers get more sophisticated, you have to get it right. In the apparel business, you have to execute product slightly differently [for each market]. There needs to be uniqueness and freshness in offering. You need a dedicated supply chain. We're getting it properly organized and set up.
There is a brand awareness, but not as high as it is in Europe or the U.S. In the U.S., it's 90% [brand recognition]. In China, it's about 60%.
The model we've applied in other markets over the years will be the basis of how we'll go in China. We're not going to just open our own stores in A1 locations, but also a substantial number of franchise stores in tier-two cities as well. We want to be widely visible.
WSJ: What does your brand stand for in China?
Mr. Gehring: We are positioned around the world as an affordable luxury brand. There is a greater excitement over the development of luxury, and it's now a crowded environment. We're definitely taking this market to China, a more 'premium' one than luxury. I don't think the word 'mass' is right. [We offer a] very nice product, priced in the upper segment without being luxury, in both luxury environments and in shopping malls.
WSJ: How do Asian markets respond to Tommy Hilfiger fashion differently than those in Western markets?
Mr. Gehring: Asia has many differences among itself. But generally speaking, our casual DNA translates very well. When it comes to product, it's the casual product that does well, as opposed to the tailored ones.
There's a desire and willingness to show color and be a bit bold ─ which works well in Asia, as opposed to other markets in the world, like northern Europe.
Jason Chow
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