2011年2月28日

上海家化进军高端护肤品市场 Chinese brands step up their game

 

从运动鞋到护肤霜,中国消费品公司不再愿意向教会了自己品牌概念的外资企业低头。不仅如此,他们还开始与一流品牌展开竞争。

以李宁(Li Ning)为例,这家中国体操运动员创立的运动服装品牌正进军高端市场,挑战耐克(Nike)和阿迪达斯(Adidas)等公司的在华业务。该品牌与阿迪达斯在争夺第二名的竞争中几乎并驾齐驱——说明有越来越多的中国人乐于穿着国产运动鞋。而中国一家化妆品巨头如今正试图复制李宁的成功。

国有企业上海家化(Shanghai Jahwa)正努力将中国女性的注意力从欧莱雅(L’Oreals)和兰蔻(Lancomes)等品牌转移,吸引到上世纪30年代的一个知名品牌身上。当时上海的奢华颓废之风堪比欧洲,此后便不可同日而语。

上海家化以Shanghai VIVE的新名称,重新推出了经典品牌“双妹”,售价最高可达1500元人民币(合220美元)——对于一小瓶面霜或香水而言,价格不菲。 在翻修过的上海外滩,极富艺术装饰建筑风格(Art Deco)的和平饭店重新开业,经过修缮的和平饭店逾显典雅,而上海家化正努力在这里营造出一种后大萧条时期的美艳氛围,以销售新产品系列。

上海家化是在押注今日爱美人士会愿意购买以艺术装饰风格包装、附加一些怀旧气息的国产护肤品。上海女性或许还留存着母亲或祖母使用这款著名面霜的深情回忆;不过,尽管相对于外国品牌,中国消费者更看重产品价值的大趋势正逐渐确立,但今天的消费者知道,化妆品重在品质,而无论对错,他们认为高品质产品都有着外国包装。

无论是运动服还是护肤品,归根结底还是这句话:中国消费者会愿意为一个国产品牌支付与外资品牌同等的价格吗?当他们愿意这么做时,中国就将完全走上了通往全新高价值社会的道路——这正是中国政府的目标。和平饭店Shanghai VIVE品牌专卖店的销量,或许是衡量中国重塑品牌行动成功与否的一个标准。

Shirley Chen补充报道。

译者/何黎


http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001034372


 

From sneakers to skin cream, Chinese consumer goods companies are no longer willing to kowtow to the foreigners who taught them branding. What’s more, they are taking their game to the big leagues.

Take Li Ning, for example, the Chinese gymnast whose sportswear brand is going upmarket to challenge the likes of Nike and Adidas in China. The brand is neck and neck with Adidas for second place - suggesting that increasing numbers of Chinese feet are happy to be shod by compatriots. A Chinese cosmetics giant is now seeking to emulate Li Ning’s success.

State-owned Shanghai Jahwa has made a play to lure Chinese women away from their L’Oreals and their Lancomes, to a brand famous from when Shanghai last tried to rival Europe for decadence - in the 1930s.

Shanghai Jahwa relaunched its iconic “Shuang Mei” brand under the name Shanghai VIVE - at prices of up to Rmb1500 ($220), stiff for a bit of face cream or a splash of perfume. The company is cultivating an aura of post-Depression glamour to sell the new line at the elegantly restored Art Deco gem, the Peace Hotel, recently re-opened on Shanghai’s renovated Bund.

The company is gambling that today’s beautiful people want local produce in a bit of Art Deco packaging, with nostalgia value thrown in for free. Shanghai ladies may have fond memories of their mothers or grandmothers using the famous cream; but, while a broader trend of Chinese consumers choosing value over foreign branding is taking hold, today’s consumers know that cosmetics are about quality, and rightly or wrongly, they think top quality comes in foreign packaging.

Sportswear or skincare, the bottom line remains: will Chinese consumers pay the same for a local brand as a foreign one? When that point is reached, China will be well on its way to the new high-value society Beijing is aiming for. The volume of sales at the new Shanghai VIVE store in the Peace Hotel may prove as good a proxy as any of the rebranding of China.

Additional reporting by Shirley Chen


http://www.ftchinese.com/story/001034372/en

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