Thomas Lee for The Wall Street Journal
208 Duecento Otto餐厅的D.O.C.比萨
说
到比萨饼的时候，208 Duecento Otto餐厅的大厨文尼•劳瑞亚（Vinny Lauria）以"痴迷"自许。面对每一块比萨饼，他都会用上科学家的精准和漫画收藏迷的执着。不过，他的目标只是创制一块正宗的那不勒斯比萨，而"正宗那不勒斯比萨协会"（l'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana）——你就把这个协会想成意大利的比萨员警好了——所制定的标准可谓无比苛刻。劳瑞亚的招牌作品是D.O.C.比萨，这个名字是意大利品质认证标志denominazione di origine controllata（限定产区命名）的缩写。D.O.C.模仿的是法国的appellation d'origine controlee（A.O.C.，限定产区命名）认证体系，只有品质上乘的地方食品才能获得这一认证。以下就是D.O.C.比萨的制作过程：
面饼：要制作正宗的那不勒斯比萨，必须使用来自意大利的双零号面粉。这是一种富含麸质的小麦面粉，粉质很细，可以和出更加均匀的面团。厨师会把面团抻成一个直径35厘米、厚三毫米的超薄面饼（面饼边缘略微凸起，意大利人管这叫做"檐口"），靠的完全是精妙的手工。劳瑞亚说，" 面杖是绝对不能用的，"抖和甩的手法也是大忌。
乳酪：D.O.C.比萨用的是奶味浓郁的莫萨雷拉水牛乳酪（Mozzarella di Bufala Campana），为这种乳酪提供乳汁的水牛生活在意大利坎帕尼亚（Campania）和拉齐奥（Lazio）的沼地之中。为了减少乳酪当中的水分（水分太多的话，面饼就会被泡软），厨师会把它切成小片，裹在乳酪布里晾上两个小时。除此之外，他们还会用上与莫萨雷拉乳酪非常相似的斯卡莫萨乳酪（Scamorza），要的是它那种标志性的烟熏味。
酱料：D.O.C.比萨上面浇的酱料是手工碾碎的新鲜小番茄。（店里供应的其他比萨用的则是意大利的San Marzano番茄酱。）
烘焙：按照正宗那不勒斯比萨协会的说法，烤制比萨只能使用意大利生产的穹顶式砖炉，只有它能保证比萨受热均匀。208 Duecento Otto餐厅用的就是一个从那不勒斯运来的手制烤炉，它可以产生485摄氏度的高温，足以在90秒钟之内把比萨烤熟。
出炉的比萨"檐口"有一点儿焦——劳瑞亚说，"我希望把它烤得黑一点儿，这样味道更浓。"——中心部分却很柔软。他说，"好的比萨饼一拿起来，边沿就会往下塌。所以呢，你得赶紧把它接住，赶紧折叠起来。"
接下来，D.O.C.比萨的最后一个地道成分得靠顾客来添加，方法是把刀子和叉子撂在一边。劳瑞亚说，"千万，千万，比萨饼一定得用手来吃。"
价格：169港元（22美元）
地址：香港上环荷李活道208号
电话：852-2549-0208
Amy Ma
（本文版权归道琼斯公司所有，未经许可不得翻译或转载。）
Chef Vinny Lauria of 208 Duecento Otto is a self-proclaimed 'nerd' when it comes to pizza. He studies every pie with the precision of a scientist and obsession of a comic-book collector.
But his aim is a genuine Naples-style pie, and the standards of l'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (Association for Real Neapolitan Pizza) - think of it as the Italian pizza police - are most exacting. Mr. Lauria's signature slice is the D.O.C., named after the Italian quality label denominazione di origine controllata, which is awarded for excellence in regional food and modeled after the French appellation d'origine contrôlée (A.O.C.) system. Here's how it comes together:
The base: Italian doppio zero flour is required to make an authentic pizza napoletana. A high-gluten wheat flour, it's extra fine, making for a smoother dough. That dough is turned into a round that's 35 centimeters in diameter and a superthin three millimeters thick (with an elevated edge the Italians call the cornicione, or cornice), dimensions achieved entirely through delicate stretching by hand. 'Rolling pins are strictly forbidden,' says Mr. Lauria, and tossing is also a no-no.
The cheeses: Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, made from the milk of water buffalo living in the marshlands of Campania and Lazio, has an intense milky flavor. To reduce the moisture (too much would makes the pizza soggy), the chef finely dices the cheese and drains it for two hours through cheesecloth. Scamorza cheese, a close cousin of mozzarella, adds a signature smoky flavor.
The sauce: Fresh cherry tomatoes, crushed by hand, serve as sauce and topping on the D.O.C. pizza. (The other pies at the restaurant are made with San Marzano tomato sauce.)
The baking: The pizza association declares that this can be achieved only in an Italian-made, dome-shaped brick oven, which ensures even heat distribution. The handcrafted example at 208 Duecento Otto, shipped over from Naples, heats up to 485° Celsius, hot enough to cook a pizza in less than 90 seconds.
It emerges with some char around the cornicione - 'I prefer it a little more black than brown, for an extra flavor,' says Mr. Lauria - but with the center soft. 'A good slice,' he says, 'should always droop down at the tip the minute you lift it up so that you have to catch it immediately and fold it up.'
And then it's up to the customer to provide the last degree of authenticity, by leaving the knife and fork where they lie. 'Always, always, eat con la mano (with the hand),' says the chef.
Price: 169 Hong Kong dollars (US$ 22)
208 Duecento Otto, 208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-2549-0208
Amy Ma
But his aim is a genuine Naples-style pie, and the standards of l'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (Association for Real Neapolitan Pizza) - think of it as the Italian pizza police - are most exacting. Mr. Lauria's signature slice is the D.O.C., named after the Italian quality label denominazione di origine controllata, which is awarded for excellence in regional food and modeled after the French appellation d'origine contrôlée (A.O.C.) system. Here's how it comes together:
The base: Italian doppio zero flour is required to make an authentic pizza napoletana. A high-gluten wheat flour, it's extra fine, making for a smoother dough. That dough is turned into a round that's 35 centimeters in diameter and a superthin three millimeters thick (with an elevated edge the Italians call the cornicione, or cornice), dimensions achieved entirely through delicate stretching by hand. 'Rolling pins are strictly forbidden,' says Mr. Lauria, and tossing is also a no-no.
The cheeses: Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, made from the milk of water buffalo living in the marshlands of Campania and Lazio, has an intense milky flavor. To reduce the moisture (too much would makes the pizza soggy), the chef finely dices the cheese and drains it for two hours through cheesecloth. Scamorza cheese, a close cousin of mozzarella, adds a signature smoky flavor.
The sauce: Fresh cherry tomatoes, crushed by hand, serve as sauce and topping on the D.O.C. pizza. (The other pies at the restaurant are made with San Marzano tomato sauce.)
The baking: The pizza association declares that this can be achieved only in an Italian-made, dome-shaped brick oven, which ensures even heat distribution. The handcrafted example at 208 Duecento Otto, shipped over from Naples, heats up to 485° Celsius, hot enough to cook a pizza in less than 90 seconds.
It emerges with some char around the cornicione - 'I prefer it a little more black than brown, for an extra flavor,' says Mr. Lauria - but with the center soft. 'A good slice,' he says, 'should always droop down at the tip the minute you lift it up so that you have to catch it immediately and fold it up.'
And then it's up to the customer to provide the last degree of authenticity, by leaving the knife and fork where they lie. 'Always, always, eat con la mano (with the hand),' says the chef.
Price: 169 Hong Kong dollars (US$ 22)
208 Duecento Otto, 208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-2549-0208
Amy Ma
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